#47: Springdale, UT & Zion National Park

Before arriving in Springdale, the town south of Zion National Park, I was a little anxious. Zion was a tricky one. There are so many incredible things to do and see, but I had several logistical factors to work out.

1. I wanted to do a few particular hikes, so this wasn’t going to be a “drive around and see” park visit.

2. Given #1, I needed to coordinate daycare for Addie. There was no leaving her in the car or the trailer, since temperatures were over 90-degrees most days.

3. To get into Zion Canyon, not only must one take a shuttle (no personal vehicles permitted in warmer months), but with COVID, one must make a reservation for the shuttle.

4. Parking. Springdale is a small “city”-like town whereby parking is not abundant. Especially parking with an RV. If I needed to park the trailer somewhere, I needed to coordinate where that would be and if I could walk to the shuttle from where it was.

5. This brings me to camping. If I was dispersed camping, did I feel comfortable leaving the trailer there while I went into the park? Was there somewhere I could pay to camp, so I didn’t have to worry about the trailer?

6. Shower. I would need to shower at some point. Damn Truma.

Given these factors, and help from my new friend, Matt (a friend of a friend who clued me in on the ins and outs of Zion), I devised a strategy. 

I was able to reserve two nights at an RV park just outside the park entrance. This campground/resort had way more amenities than I wanted or needed, but the location was prime. The availability was few and far between, so I took what I could get and all the other logistics would be worked around the dates I got. This reservation was for a Monday and Tuesday night, and I arrived in town on a Saturday, so this gave me time to figure out getting into the park on a shuttle and what hikes I wanted to do and when.

The Zion Canyon Shuttle is reservable on recreation.gov. It books out months in advance, but the saving grace is that each day, at 9 am, they release additional reservations for the following day. For example, if you want a reservation for a Monday, you log in to recreation.gov on Sunday promptly at 9 am to reserve your time slot for Monday. However, you are taking a risk because there is a chance you may not get the reservation. It’s tough to risk things like that when all other logistics are get coordinated simultaneously.

One of the hikes at Zion that I had to do was The Narrows. This is one of the most epic and popular hikes in the southwest United States. It also required some equipment because you are hiking in water, through Zion Canyon. 

Now that I’ve set the stage of what I was working with, I’ll kick off my Springdale and Zion experience by day. 

Day 1: Saturday

I arrived in Springdale early evening and scouted out some BLM land in a neighboring town to crash for the night. Not a bad view at all.

Day 2: Sunday

With the Airstream in tow, we headed into Springdale. I found a specific RV parking area and paid $20 to park for the day (expensive!).

The first place we stopped was an adventure outfitting shop. I wanted to get some intel about hiking The Narrows and what it entailed. For the best experience, they recommended I rent neoprene socks and boots. I didn’t want to walk through water in my leather hiking boots, so renting the appropriate footwear was something I didn’t mind doing. Plus, I wanted to be comfortable so that I could enjoy it.

Also, it’s worth noting: these shops are not the type to “sell” you into anything you don’t need. They answered me honestly when I asked if I “needed” neoprene footwear. They told me I’d be a lot more comfortable than if I used my regular hiking boots. 

To my surprise, for an additional fee, they offered a private shuttle into the park. This option meant I didn’t have to risk trying to get a reservation on the park shuttle through recreation.gov. I liked this idea. It was a bit more expensive than the $1 park shuttle, but worth it for the peace of mind knowing I’d get into the park. I rented equipment and reserved the private shuttle for Tuesday, meaning I’d also set up daycare for Addie on Tuesday. 

For the rest of the day, we explored Springdale. Per Matt’s recommendation, we hit up Deep Creek Coffee Company for a late breakfast. So yummy. I also picked up a pair of shorts to wear while hiking The Narrows. I never wear shorts, but I deemed it necessary given the nature of this type of hike. 

Day 3: Monday

After spending another night at the same dispersed camping area, we checked into the RV park around noon. I also confirmed Addie’s daycare reservation. I found a doggie daycare called Doggie Dude Ranch right outside town. Although it had great reviews (even locals I spoke to recommended it!), I was still a little nervous to leave Addie. I knew she’d be safe, but I’m a basketcase…especially with my trusted traveling companion.

I swung by the outfitting shop to pick up my neoprene socks and boots and my hiking pole for the next day’s hike.

For the rest of the day, I camped out on Deep Creek's patio and ordered takeout from Oscar's for a late lunch.

I was hiking The Narrows on Tuesday, and I figured I’d try to hike the West Rim Trail to Scout Lookout on Wednesday. Since I would be physically in Zion Canyon on Tuesday morning without mobile service, I contracted out my friend Jordan to log in to recreation.gov on my behalf and snag me a shuttle reservation for the following day. I'm always utilizing my resources.

Day 4: Tuesday

It was hard for me to drop Addie off at daycare, but there was no time for questioning…I had to get to my private shuttle pick up location. It was a smooth operation. About eight people were on the shuttle, all wearing masks, and we drove right into the park. Our driver dropped us off at the trailhead for The Narrows and told us where to find the shuttle for the way back. I was off.

I didn't know what to expect, but after a regular, "dry" walk to the deeper part of the canyon, I quickly understood the purpose of the neoprene socks and boots. I'm also glad I wore shorts and dry-wick clothing. The canyon started wide and gradually became more narrow. It was so cool. Although crowded, because I got an early start, I could get some moments alone in the canyon.

At one point, I was in water chest-deep! I took one spill in the beginning. I’m so glad I had the pole - it acted as a third leg (base), which I needed because you couldn’t always see where you were stepping or what you were stepping on/in/over.

I wasn’t sure how far to go, so I turned around when I felt like it. I hiked at least a good six miles in the canyon, though. To say this hike was epic is an understatement. It was like no other.

After taking the shuttle back into town, I hustled to the daycare to scoop Addie. She had an incredible day. The owners of Doggie Dude Ranch were phenomenal. So much so that I decided I’d take Addie back the next day, especially because Jordan managed to reserve me a shuttle time for Wednesday morning.

Day 5: Wednesday

I checked out of the RV park early because I didn’t want to worry about getting back by a specific time to check out. I took Addie back to daycare, parked the car and Airstream in the RV parking area, and made the park shuttle by 8 am. By the way, the park shuttle was easy!

The West Rim Trail to Scout Lookout was arduous. The distance was only about two miles, but the elevation gain was about 1,000 feet. It was worth it, though. The views were breathtaking.

The next section of this trail, and the most legendary, was closed due to COVID. The hike to Angel’s Landing would have to wait.

Given that it was still early in the day, I hit Upper, Middle, and Lower Emerald Pool trails. This was a “convenience” hike. I was there, these trails were there, and since I was up for more, I hiked them.

I got back into town, picked up my car and Airstream, and fetched my girl. My time at Zion had come to a close. I exited the park through the east entrance, stopping along the Zion-Mt. Carmel Highway to take in some sights.

I left feeling fulfilled, accomplished, and happy that I could do most that I set out to do at Zion. The lingering thing was Angel’s Landing…I had to figure out a way to do that hike later down the road. In the meantime, I had other places to visit in southern Utah.

#46: My (many) Days in Salt Lake City

I gave myself a few days to get down to Salt Lake City for my appointment at Airstream of Utah. I was anxiously awaiting this date, September 15th, for many months now. On this date (or so I thought), I’d have the answers to all my Airstream problems.

Over this time, I kept a log of all the things I needed the service team to look at. These were mostly small things, but the elephant in the room was the Truma. I didn’t have heat, and I didn’t have hot water. NOT COOL.

The lack of hot water was the main thing. Since cold showers are no fun, I had to ensure I found campgrounds with (decent) public showers…at least occasionally. Showers became a special treat, rather than a usual occurrence, unfortunately. This extra level of criteria narrows down the search of places to stay, and in turn, makes it more difficult and potentially forces me to stay somewhere that I wouldn’t usually. I digress.

When I first got to town, I had a lunch date with two friends from business school who settled in SLC - Eric and Devon. It was so wonderful to see them and catch up.

After a pleasant night in an in-town RV park (where they pack in the rigs like sardines), I was Airstream-dealer bound. The team took the first day to attack the bumper. The seams had to seal overnight, so I stayed in a hotel, as I expected. The next day is when the fun began.

Day #1 of troubleshooting the Airstream:

Diagnosis: None. The entire Truma unit was dismantled in order to get to the root of the problem.

What I did: Errands around town. Visited the Salt Lake Temple, which was under construction.

Accommodations: Hotel again.

Day #2 of troubleshooting the Airstream:

Diagnosis: None. Unit remained dismantled. Airstream team in touch with Truma team to join efforts in troubleshooting.

What I did: Visited Antelope Island State Park. About 1.5 hours from SLC, this activity was recommended to me by a few different people. It’s home to over 600 American Bison. I didn’t find it super impressive, but it was something to do, and Addie and I got some exercise on a few small hikes.

Accommodations: Hotel again.

Day #3 of troubleshooting the Airstream:

Diagnosis: None. Unit remained dismantled. Truma team consulting on the issues.

What I did: Visited Park City, about 30 minutes away from SLC. I had never been, but like most mountain towns, I loved it. Addie and I perused the streets and stopped for a beer and a veggie burger at Wasatch Brewery.

Accommodations: Hotel again.

Day #4 of troubleshooting the Airstream:

Diagnosis: The existing unit is broken to the point of no return. It needs to be completely replaced. However, the new unit will take about 10 days to arrive at the dealership.

What I did: Weighed my options. I would not hang around SLC for over a week waiting for the new furnace/water heater to be delivered. I decided to take the Airstream (broken Truma and all) and head down to southern Utah to Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks while waiting. I’d return to SLC when the new unit arrived.

I toyed with the idea of having the unit sent to the Airstream dealer in Denver, allowing me to keep on my original route and “meet” the part in Denver. However, the techs in SLC were already familiar with my case. It also exhausted me to think about having to download yet another service manager on the situation. I was so over this.

I left SLC with some frustration, but there was nothing I could do to change the situation. All I could do was make the most of it, which is what I did. I embraced my change of plans and got excited to head south.

Oh, and by the way, when I initially purchased the Airstream, I bought an extended warranty through a third party. These repairs and travel expenses (hotel, meals, etc.) were all included in my coverage. The claim submission required a lot of paperwork, but I would get reimbursed in the end.

#45: Yellowstone National Park

I was a little stressed out about Yellowstone. I get anxious about the parks that are large, popular, and iconic. Yellowstone is all the things. Plus, battling crowds, driving around for parking spots, and waiting in lines are all hurdles that take away from what the actual park provides to its visitors. 

Maybe it's because I had the worst in mind, but fortunately, I had an enjoyable experience at Yellowstone. When I visited as a child, I only remember Old Faithful and the paint pots. However, there is so much more to this park than those few memories that stick in my mind. Although we didn't hike, we saw a lot and were thoroughly pleased with our several days there. 

To introduce you to the park, here are a few fun facts about Yellowstone:

1. Yellowstone the first national park in the world, established in 1872.

2. Yellowstone is larger than Delaware and Rhode Island - combined.

3. Yellowstone Lake is the largest high-alpine lake in North America, sitting at 7,733 feet above sea level.

4. Yellowstone is home to the largest, free-roaming herd of bison in the world.

5. After two decades of extinction, gray wolves were restored to Yellowstone in 1995.

6. In the past, Old Faithful erupted about every 60 minutes. However, due to earthquake damage over the years, it now erupts about every 88 minutes.

I was surprised that upon exiting Grand Teton National Park, I practically rolled right into Yellowstone National Park. My first mission was to find a place to camp. Since I came up from the south, I tried a few places along that route. These campgrounds were far out of the way, but I still stopped to check them out. Not surprisingly, nothing was available.

Eventually, I got up to Grant Visitor Center and checked out the campground there. Also, booked. At this point, my best bet was to camp outside one of the park entrances - either the entrance at West Yellowstone or the entrance in Gardiner, Montana, to the north. I spoke to a few people at some of the booked campgrounds, learning that West Yellowstone had limited options. Decision made: I'd take the rest of the day to drive up to the north end and find a place in Gardiner, Montana, to spend the night. 

We made our way to Old Faithful - the can't-miss at Yellowstone. It was busy but manageable. The next eruption of Old Faithful was in about an hour, so leaving Addie in the Airstream while parked, I walked around Upper Geyser Basin. I was amazed by what I say - all the colors, the geothermal activity - it was just so fascinating. ***NERD ALERT***

I underestimated the time it took to walk around, and by the time Old Faithful erupted, I was pretty far away. Seeing it from a distance was still pretty impressive, though.

For the next eruption, I got a little closer.

We made our way out of the park to the north to find a place to camp. Gardiner is the town at the north entrance, which also hosts the iconic Roosevelt Arch, constructed in 1903. With Yellowstone as the first national park, and this entrance being the primary one, people wanted something grandiose to mark it. President Theodore Roosevelt dedicated it, and it’s now a national historic landmark.

Gardiner sits at the junction of the Gardner and Yellowstone Rivers. Thanks to Campendium, we found a pretty stellar spot for the night. It was a pull-off from a forest road, but the views were top-notch.

The next day Addie and I drove back into Yellowstone. Our first order of business was to swing by Mammoth Campground, right inside the park boundaries, to see if we could get lucky with a site (this was a first-come, first-serve campground). We arrived at 9 am, and there was a line of RVs waiting to slide into spots as parties unoccupied them. It wasn’t looking great for us, so we canned that idea and carried on.

I took Addie for a walk around the Mammoth Hot Springs area. We spotted some elk, just hanging out around the buildings.

In general, the scenery was gorgeous. We relaxed and people-watched, without putting much pressure on ourselves to do much.

I headed back to Gardiner later on in the day. I was craving an afternoon beer on an outdoor patio. The first place we tried wasn’t dog-friendly, which I found odd as most of these towns welcome dogs in their outdoor spaces. We landed at The Corral, a place known for its burgers. I opted for a salad and a Huckleberry beer.

Since we enjoyed our stay at the previous night's campsite (and didn't have my other options), we decided to go back there for another night. This time, there were a few more campers, but still room for us.

There was much more in the park to explore the following day. We headed east, toward Tower-Roosevelt. I didn't know what we would find, but I was happy with what we encountered. Exhibit A:

It was going to be impossible to beat seeing bison on the road, but we came close. Did you know that there is a “Grand Canyon” of The Yellowstone? There is.

Traveling south, we made our way to more incredible hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles. I stopped where I wanted to stop and didn’t stop where I didn’t want to stop - one of the joys of traveling solo.

The problem with not stopping in some places is that I completely neglected to visit the Grand Prismatic Spring. This is the largest hot spring at Yellowstone, and I missed it! Whoops. Big whoops. I saw other cool ones, though. But still….HUGE whoops.

After pulling off at multiple locations for sights along the main road and passing through Canyon Village, we found our way to Yellowstone Lake. I didn’t even know there was a lake at Yellowstone. We stopped to pick up some cheese and crackers and enjoyed a little lakeside picnic.

After a quick stop at the gift shop, we were on our way. It was time for us to head down to Salt Lake City…it was Saturday, and we had an appointment at Airstream of Utah on Tuesday. The bumper needed its replacement, and more importantly, I had to get this water heater/furnace diagnosed and fixed (again). I was keeping my fingers crossed that they would be able to figure out a solution. At this point, the Truma was haunting my dreams.

I felt sad to leave such a beautiful place but excited to get the Airstream fixed, hopefully for the last time.

#44: I'm goin' to Jackson (& Grand Teton National Park)

Jackson

Jackson, Wyoming on Labor Day weekend had been a plan in the works for a while. I had to think ahead for this particular weekend, as I was to have a very specific visitor.

Remember when COVID first hit and I sheltered-in-place in Texas for a few months? Well, I left this detail out, but I stayed with a significant someone. While in Marfa, TX, I met a gentleman. I kept it under wraps for a while because who knew what would become of it, but now, since something did come of it, I figure it’s time to let the cat out of the bag.

His name is Beau, and he is a smart, loving, funny, caring, sensitive stud of a guy. And he is a cowboy in West Texas - quite exotic for this Connecticut-born-and-raised girl. But sometimes, things click. And that is precisely what happened to us.

So, Beau came to visit me in Jackson for a long weekend. I found a pretty prime campground called Curtis Canyon about ten miles outside of Jackson: close enough to explore the city, but remote and rustic enough that Beau could get an idea of what my Airstream life was all about. We didn’t make any specific plans. We just walked around, enjoyed some local restaurants, and relaxed.

Speaking of local restaurants, an old high school friend of mine, Kevin, is quite the restauranteur in Jackson. He and his wife own and operate three local and tourist favorites: Persephone, Picnic, and Coelette. Beau and I thoroughly enjoyed a breakfast at Persephone and a lunch at Coelette. Both were delicious.

There was one thing that put a small damper on things during Beau’s visit. The Truma water heater/furnace started acting up again. Beau and I went to take showers one evening, and we couldn’t get any hot water. I was so glad I had an upcoming appointment at Airstream of Utah in Salt Lake City because I would need it. Not being able to take a shower when you want or need one is not okay.

Before long, Beau had to head back to Texas, and our holiday weekend had come to an end. Boo. However, fortunately for me, I had Grand Teton National Park to look forward to next.

Grand Teton National Park

The day Beau left, which was early September, some freak weather came through. I stepped outside of the Airstream after a nap to find this:

It was cold, and I had a broken furnace. I needed to get to some hookups. I settled on a more “luxury” RV park than I usually prefer, but it was slim pickings outside and inside Grand Teton National Park. After checking in, Addie and I headed into the park. Luckily by then, the aftermath of the snowpocalypse was melting.

We headed first to Jenny Lake - one of the classic areas of the park. The melting snow added a majestic touch to the scenery.

We stopped at Mormon Row, which you may recognize - the John Moulton Barn and the T. A. Moulton Barn are among the most photographed sites in the park.

We headed out the next morning for more exploring, heading back toward Jenny Lake. We didn’t have a plan other than to let the day happen.

On the way to the Jenny Lake area, I passed by a parking lot that seemed to be filling up quickly - Taggart Lake Trail. I knew this was a quick yet scenic hike and would feel comfortable leaving Addie in the car for the time it took me to go out and back. It’s only about three miles.

With the sun shining and the freshly-fallen snow from the day before, the trail was beautiful. The hike wasn’t too challenging, but the sites of Taggart Lake at the end made it feel like I earned it.

Addie was okay in the car. The temperature was perfect for her to chill in the back seat with the windows open. I started speaking to a few others in the parking lot and heard that the hike to Inspiration Point at Jenny Lake was a can’t-miss. I decided that was what I’d do next.

This one was a little different. I took a 12-minute shuttle boat across Jenny Lake to get to the trailhead, which provided a different perspective. The 1-mile hike to Inspiration Point presented stunning views of Jenny Lake. After checking out Hidden Falls on the way down, I hiked the Jenny Lake Trail along the lake back to the Jenny Lake Visitor Center, where I was parked.

It was a great day in the park, primarily because my plan did not involve a plan.

Later in the day and Addie and I headed to our “bougie” RV park to pack up. The following morning we would leave Jackson and go north towards Yellowstone. But, to get to Yellowstone, we needed to drive through more of Grand Teton. No complaints from me on this, as there was more of Grand Teton to see. Like Morman Row at sunrise.

During the wee hours, we got up to get to the prime location for sunrise shots of the John Moulton Barn. Of course, there were other people there to get good photos. It was a unique situation. We were all there, waiting for the sun to rise. To pass the time, we chatted and laughed together. There was a father and son, a German girl solo traveling, a young married photographer, and an older gentleman (and me). I’m not sure if we had anything in common except for our desire to get the money shot. It was fun. And worth the freezing temperatures.

After making some coffee in the Airstream, Addie and I hit the road north toward Yellowstone, passing more beautiful scenery on the way out.

Between Jackson and Grand Teton, this week was one for the books. Seeing Beau was a breath of fresh air, and, of course, getting out into the mountains was as well. I was on a bit of a Rocky Mountain high, which would continue through my time at Yellowstone National Park.

#43: I-I-Idaho

I passed through the northern, narrow portion of Idaho that borders Canada en route from Washington to Montana, but that was just for a few hours. I didn’t count that as really visiting Idaho. Having a few friends in Boise I wanted to see, I happily headed back west towards Boise even though it was a bit of backtracking.

My landing pad in Boise was my friend Charina’s house. Charina and I met in Boulder, CO, working for Backpacker magazine about ten years ago. I was looking forward to visiting Charina and her family and also to experience Boise. I had heard such great things about it and was anxious to see the city for myself.

I loved it. It’s funny because years ago, to me, Boise seemed so “out there” - like the cow town for which Denver was known before it became the cool place to be. They say Boise is the “next” Denver, and I believe it. The city is happy and quaint and offers so much. The weather is pleasant all year round, outdoor activities nearby are abundant, the food and culture scene is lively, and people are friendly and open-minded. Charina and her family live in a city neighborhood, and it’s walkable and safe.

We did a little adventuring at Box Canyon State Park. It was cool to see something different that I wouldn’t have done if my friends hadn’t initiatedd it. 

We also met up with a mutual friend from NYC - our friend Laurence. We all know each other from our past careers in magazine publishing. We caught up over some wine and the picturesque atmosphere at Koenig Vineyards.

My next stops in Idaho were Ketchum and Sun Valley (per Charina’s recommendation). Ketchum is a little mountain town, and Sun Valley is the ski resort area. I’m a sucker for a good mountain town, and Ketchum was no different. I also got to see North America’s first chair lift.

After asking around town, I planned to explore Redfish Lake the next day, about an hour north of Ketchum. I found an incredible boondocking spot outside Ketchum and Sun Valley.

I had no expectations of Redfish Lake and wasn’t exactly sure what I would do there. I found my way, though, and took a boat across the lake and hiked back.

My next destination…Jackson, WY. I had a bit of a drive to get there but was pumped for what Jackson had in store.