#60: A Few More Stops in Arizona

Arizona was not yet in my rearview. I still had more to see and do there, such as an appointment at Airstream of Scottsdale.

I know, I’ve been to many Airstream locations. This time, it was just for a few small things. I wanted to ensure the Basecamp was in the best possible shape when I handed it over to the new owners. Just like a house, there are things to update, maintain, and fix before selling.

While the Basecamp was in the shop, Addie and I perused historic Scottsdale. I had been once before many years ago, and although I recognized a lot of it, even more of it seemed new and different. The historic section still felt small, authentic, and quaint, though.

Since I started traveling in November 2019, I had been looking forward to Sedona. Not only is Sedona incredibly scenic, but it’s also a spiritual vortex.

I scoped out some dispersed camping national forest land south of Sedona. We rolled in towards the end of the day and turned left onto a “road” that led to an area large enough for two or three campsites. When I got there, one RV camper was already there. Sometimes, in spots like these, people get annoyed when other campers set up too close. I am cautious of this and try to get as far away from others as possible. I made some dinner, caught the sunset, and turned in for the night. 

The following morning as Addie and I ventured out of the Airstream and got moving, a dog from the other campsite came running over to say hi. I swear this dog looked familiar. His owner was outside walking toward us, and I asked him for the dog’s name. He said, “Bella.” The name was familiar, and so was the man’s voice.

“Michael?” I said, squinting my eyes to see him.

“Sarah?” he responded as he continued to walk toward us.

Holy moly. It was my hiking buddy, Michael, who I met on a trailhead in New Mexico. We hiked that entire day together and since then had exchanged a few emails. What are the chances?

We smiled, laughed, embraced, and shared disbelief. Of all the states, areas, dispersed camping places, and roads in given camping places, we both chose the same one, at the same time. We caught up a bit and made plans to go for a hike with the dogs the following day. I was contemplating leaving this camping area, but I decided to stick around since Michael was there.

I made my way to town (West Sedona) for some housekeeping - laundry, groceries, etc. In the afternoon, Addie and I ventured to Uptown Sedona to do the touristy walk-around. It was exceptionally crowded the weekend I was there. The town is cute but catered to tourists. We sat on the patio of a Mexican restaurant, enjoyed a margarita, and people-watched. 

Michael and I met the following morning for our hike on Bell Trail in the Coconino National Forest. Conveniently, the trail was only a few miles from where we were camping. We chatted the entire 3.5 miles until rewarded with a stunning red rock canyon with ledges overlooking a clear water creek. We found a ridge on which to sit down, have a snack, and relax. 

When I solo hike, I usually don’t do a very good job of taking my time and taking it all in. This time, though, Michael and I hung out on this ledge for a few hours - meeting and chatting with others who came through, watching people jump into the water, and just being silent. It was a very memorable moment and one on which I will certainly reflect.

There were other, more renowned trails that I wanted to check out the next day. I knew these trails would have crowds, so I got an early start.

I kicked off with Cathedral Rock Trail. I arrived at the trailhead around 8 am, but the parking lot was full. Street parking was limited, but I got lucky and found someone leaving, so I snuck in his spot when I saw him getting out (I have no idea what time he got there if he was already done by 8 am!).

The reviews of this trail say that dogs are welcome but not advised to come because some areas are steep and difficult for dogs. I knew Addie would handle it, though. She is ridiculously agile and can jump and maneuver like a circus dog (actually, her breed was used as circus dogs in the past). It wasn’t a long trail, either. Not to brag (well, maybe a little), but my little munchkin made her way up and down this:

The masses of people were annoying, but the scenery was exquisite. The hike was also fun, as the terrain was varietal.

After trying a few other trailheads and not finding parking, I finally got a spot at the Broken Arrow Trail trailhead. Not surprisingly, it was packed with cars and visitors. This hike shared parts of its way with jeeps and mountain bikes, but I was glad I landed on it.

Addie and I departed the Sedona area the following morning and also said good-bye to Michael and Bella. We were sad to part but planned to keep in touch. Such is the life of nomads on the road!

I had one more stop in Arizona, which was the ever-so-iconic, Grand Canyon National Park.

#52: Work & Play in Denver

As much as I didn’t want to face it, it was time to start thinking about life-after-Airstream. All along, the plan of purchasing an Airstream Basecamp for this year on the road was to sell it after traveling. This was one of the main reasons I bought an Airstream trailer - they hold their value much better than SOBs (an "Airstream" acronym for "Some Other Brand').

For a while, I toyed with the idea of keeping the Basecamp. It's my home. I am connected to it. We have been through a lot together. However, I snapped out of that for a plethora of reasons:

1. I didn’t know where I was going to live, let alone store an Airstream.

2. I wasn’t sure if I’d use it enough to warrant keeping it (mostly because I wasn’t sure what the future was holding for me).

3. The old supply and demand curve. It’s a seller’s market. Due to COVID, the demand for RV travel is up, and RV availability is down. They can’t make Airstreams fast enough. Buyers are paying more for trailers in this economic landscape: people don’t want to travel internationally, don’t want to fly, and have the option to travel with their families given remote work and school. The market value of my Basecamp is higher than what I paid for it in Fall 2019.

When I knew I was going to sell it, the next thing to think about was logistics. After the conclusion of my travel (late November), I plan to head back to Virginia for the holidays. If I could avoid towing the trailer back to Virginia, that would be best. The market out west is more prominent, as well.

I decided that while in Denver, where I had space, time, and resources, I’d empty it, deep clean it, take some photos, and throw it up online to see what would happen.

Fortunately for me, I had some help cleaning it. Thank God for my little assistants.

There are multiple online outlets to sell a trailer. The common “RV” ones (of which I know) are RV Trader and Airstream Marketplace. On these sites, however, one must pay to list a trailer. Since I was only testing the market’s water and still had about six weeks left to travel, I opted to post only on Craigslist - in Denver and Phoenix. Craigslist only charges $5 for an RV listing.

I got more bites than anticipated - mostly from the Denver listing. I even had interested parties from other parts of the country. At this point, I knew I could sell it pretty quickly. One couple showed the most interest and was able to take a look at it before I left town. They loved it. We verbally agreed that they would purchase it when I finished traveling and I would drop it off in Denver the first week of December. I was trusting them, and they were trusting me, but given the interest I had, I wasn’t worried that if they backed out, I could still sell it without too much hassle.

Whoa. This was happening.

The rest of my time in Denver, I spent having quality time with my friends and the kids, doing some COVID-friendly small things in town (bike rides, patio dinners, short hikes), and just hanging out. Amy and I have been friends for many, many years, so hanging out is our jam. We didn’t need to do anything special for the time to be special.

I left Denver excited for the last six weeks of traveling. I had some enjoyable things to see and do, and verbally selling the Airstream was a significant stress relief. Plus, knowing that I would be back in Denver to drop it off made leaving my friends that much easier.

My next stop was Colorado Springs. I visited an old friend from high school who I hadn’t seen in 20+ years. He and his wife have two beautiful children and another on the way. It was delightful to catch up over lost time and re-get to know an old friend and his family.

Before I knew it, I was heading south to Great Sand Dunes and Mesa Verde National Parks.

#51: Colorado Mountain Towns

At this point in my travel year, I got to a place where life on the road felt entirely normal. I knew when the freshwater tank was getting low without having to look at the monitor. I felt “home” in the driver’s seat of my car. I had washing dishes to conserve water down to a T. I knew what to look for when searching for a good camping spot. I could set up and pack up a campsite with my eyes closed - I was doing it. Confidently. This was my new normal.

Reflecting on where I was twelve or eight, or six months ago, I felt different. I felt empowered. Like a road warrior. Like I overcame things and could tackle anything that came my way. It’s an incredible feeling. And to be in colorful Colorado made that feeling all the better. Okay, here goes - Colorado Mountain Towns.

I visited Crested Butte, Telluride, Aspen, and Carbondale. The only one that was new to me was Carbondale. When I lived in Colorado, I had visited the others, but that wasn’t going to stop me from going again. I will say it over and over - I love mountain towns.

Crested Butte

My plan for Crested Butte was, well, no plan. I wanted to explore the town yet not dilly dally, as I wanted to make sure I got to Telluride to catch as much of the yellow leaves as possible.

Since we arrived mid-day, I parked the car and Airstream on a side street and began scouting out the town. It’s a small town, so simple to navigate. Addie and I walked up and down the main drag, stopping for an iced coffee and scoping out some shops. CB is a very dog-friendly town, which is extra points in my book.

I found some forest land outside town to spend the night. It took me a few tries to get the Airstream leveled on this terrain, but eventually, I nailed it.

The following day, Addie and I drove downtown to have breakfast at Butte Bagels. I walked by it the previous day, but it was closed. Since then, I was craving a bagel. I got the Nicole bagel sandwich and ate every bite before heading to Telluride.

I like Crested Butte because it doesn’t feel as “commercial” as many other mountain towns. Many of them have gotten so popular as second residences and have lost part of their edge as they grow in popularity. Part of what makes these towns unique is their grit, which gets diluted when they become expensive vacation destinations.

Telluride

Getting from one town to another in the mountains always takes longer than you think. The route is usually windy because the roads take you around the mountains. Makes sense. Anyway, the drive to Telluride is a little over three hours. I knew where I wanted to camp, but I wasn’t sure what the availability would look like.

My destination is somewhat of an infamous Telluride boondocking spot for nomads called Last Dollar Road. The prime area overlooks the valley with beautiful mountain views and stunning sunsets.

The Last Dollar Road camping area is about 10 miles outside of downtown Telluride and the drive up to it is just so scenic. It’s because of views like this I wanted to get to Colorado for the foliage!

We made it up to the campground to find it exceedingly crowded - even for a Sunday evening. Because the Basecamp is only 16 feet long, I can maneuver it into areas that may not be obvious “sites.” The best spots were taken, so I decided to park where I could, keep the car attached, and hope that someone would leave the next morning to claim a new spot. 

I found a hiking trail, Bear Creek Trail, that begins right outside town. I parked the car and Airstream on the street, and Addie and I walked to the trailhead. It was busy, but that didn’t take away from the beauty. 

We took a walk around town after the hike. There is just something about the mountain air, the people's energy, and the overall vibe in Telluride. It's gotten a little built up over the years, but I think it still has its original cowboy-mountain-town vibe.

Addie had a first in Telluride: she took her first gondola ride! We met a friend up at Altezza at the Peaks for a late afternoon patio cocktail.

We spent the next day in Mountain Village. I enjoyed an outdoor lunch at Tomboy Tavern, wrote a little, and charted out plans for Carbondale, my next destination.

Carbondale

Carbondale is a mountain town that I had not yet visited. I found a small RV park right in Carbondale, which made things easy when it came time to explore the area. 

On our first day, we explored downtown a little bit. What I like about Carbondale is, as a girl who leans towards city life, it’s big enough to feel like you’re not entirely out there. It’s still a small town, but it’s liveable. It has what you need, and if you need a Target, Glenwood Springs is less than 30 minutes away. On the flip side, you have gorgeous mountains all around you and the largest outdoor playground you can imagine. Aspen is less than an hour away, Vail is a bit more than an hour away, and Grand Junction is less than two hours away. 

Bottom line: I love Carbondale and could see myself living there one day.

Addie and I took an evening hike about a mile from where we were staying. The trail was called Mushroom Rock. You could tell it is a “local” hike. There were trail runners, friends getting exercise after work, and a lot of dogs. We were afforded views of the town and the surrounding mountains. Addie got a pretty decent red rock dye-job, too.

We moved campsites to Lower Prince Creek after a few nights at the RV park. This campground was a little closer to Aspen and the Maroon Bells - our next stop. Sunset at our new digs looked like this (I love the Basecamp’s panoramic front windows; this photo was taken from inside the trailer):

The Maroon Bells are said to be the most photographed place in Colorado. They are a small mountain range outside Aspen, and I learned the hard way that they are not simple to get to. Like other places I’ve experienced, one must book a shuttle, or reserve a car pass, to get to the trailheads. With COVID, reservations were few and far between. Within a few days, I could snag a shuttle bus reservation on a given Sunday, so I planned around that.

Unfortunately, the weather forecast was sub-par that day (which made me wonder if that was why reservations were only available that day). It was cold and cloudy when I woke up, with a forecast of freezing rain and snow later in the day. When I saw this, I almost backed out. But alas, carpe diem. I know myself, and I would have regretted it if I chickened out. I committed, and I was going to keep my commitment.

The shuttle bus picks up in Aspen, which is about a 40-minute drive from where we camped. We got there, parked, and checked in. Fortunately, Addie was allowed on the bus and the trails. Although it was cold, it was only cloudy at this point. 

It was completely worth it. We opted for the Maroon-Snowmass Trail to Crater Lake hike. The lakes were dry, but we didn’t care. The views were remarkable.

When we got back to Maroon Lake, we decided to keep the momentum going and hop on another trail. The bus would pick us up at a different bus stop, just closer to Aspen. As gorgeous as it was, at the end of our journey, the freezing rain rolled in.

While we were moving, it wasn’t too bad, but when we got to the bus stop and were stationary, it got cold and miserable. Because the busses already stopped at the “main” bus stop to pick up people returning, we had to wait for a bus that had room for us. A few passed before one bus driver let us on. The COVID-friendly seats were all occupied, but he let me stand. I think he felt terrible for Addie and me because we were soaking wet and freezing. Can’t you see the misery on Addie’s face?

I cannot emphasize enough how incredible it was to come back to the Airstream, turn on the heat, and take a hot shower. I didn’t have that luxury weeks ago with my busted Truma. I was so grateful.

Our next landing pad was Denver - to the house of my dear friends, Amy and Gavin. I was so looking forward to seeing them and their kiddos. And - not going to lie - hot showers in abundance!

#49: Pando, Tires, and Truma

By this time, I started making my way back up towards Salt Lake to get my Truma water heater/furnace replaced.

With all of this driving lately (these states out West are huge), I began to notice the tires on my car were getting pretty worn. Since I do much driving on unpaved, rocky roads, I didn't want to push it with vulnerable tires. I also didn't need a highway blowout to add to my list of things to fix.

I found a tire center in Richfield, UT, a large(r) town in the vicinity of where I was. Calling ahead, I ensured they would have the tires I needed by the time I arrived.

But first, a quick jaunt to Pando. A friend of mine mentioned Pando while I was in Salt Lake the first time around. I hadn't heard of it; that's what Google is for.

• Pando is referred to as the Trembling Giant due to the leaves' sound with just the slightest wind.

• It's a grove of quaking aspens in the Fishlake National Forest in Utah.

• The grove is a single organism, as all the trees share a root system.

• Unlike other trees, these aspens sprout from the parent tree's lateral root, making each tree a stem of a massive single clone.

• The word "Pando" is Latin for "I spread."

The above makes Pando the most massive living organism, spanning over 100 acres. However, there is an absence of young, regenerative stems to replace the older trunks due partly to deer and elk's overgrazing in recent years. That, combined with the regular deterioration of the older trees, makes Pando extremely vulnerable to shrinking. In time, Pando could completely die off. Teams of scientists are on it, though, studying the reasons for the decline to adapt accordingly. 

We slept among Pando at Doctor Creek Campground near Fish Lake. We hiked the trembling aspens, and it was unforgettable. We hit it at the perfect time when the aspen leaves were bright yellow.

After our hike, we hit the road for Richfield. The only decent place to stay was a KOA (Kampgrounds of America). I usually don’t opt for this chain campground, but I was okay with it because:

1. It was inexpensive.

2. I could refill the fresh water tank.

3. I could dump the wastewater tank.

4. I could do laundry.

5. I could take a shower.

Our first stop the next morning was the tire center. After waiting a few hours and dropping a pretty penny, we were off towards Salt Lake to get our replacement Truma.

We crashed at a Walmart parking lot about an hour south of SLC. I didn’t need anything fancy as I had just showered that morning, and my only requirement was being somewhat close to the dealership to get there first thing the next morning. Plus, I was used to parking lots by now.

I cannot believe I am writing this, but this visit to an Airstream dealership service center was, wait for it…quick and easy. It took the Airstream of Utah team a few hours to replace the Truma, test it to ensure it’s working correctly and consistently, and send me on my way. The feeling of driving away with a new working furnace/water heater was indescribable. I had been dealing with this wonky thing for my entire trip, and now I was sailing (driving) off into the sunset with a brand-new (working) unit. Life was good.

#44: I'm goin' to Jackson (& Grand Teton National Park)

Jackson

Jackson, Wyoming on Labor Day weekend had been a plan in the works for a while. I had to think ahead for this particular weekend, as I was to have a very specific visitor.

Remember when COVID first hit and I sheltered-in-place in Texas for a few months? Well, I left this detail out, but I stayed with a significant someone. While in Marfa, TX, I met a gentleman. I kept it under wraps for a while because who knew what would become of it, but now, since something did come of it, I figure it’s time to let the cat out of the bag.

His name is Beau, and he is a smart, loving, funny, caring, sensitive stud of a guy. And he is a cowboy in West Texas - quite exotic for this Connecticut-born-and-raised girl. But sometimes, things click. And that is precisely what happened to us.

So, Beau came to visit me in Jackson for a long weekend. I found a pretty prime campground called Curtis Canyon about ten miles outside of Jackson: close enough to explore the city, but remote and rustic enough that Beau could get an idea of what my Airstream life was all about. We didn’t make any specific plans. We just walked around, enjoyed some local restaurants, and relaxed.

Speaking of local restaurants, an old high school friend of mine, Kevin, is quite the restauranteur in Jackson. He and his wife own and operate three local and tourist favorites: Persephone, Picnic, and Coelette. Beau and I thoroughly enjoyed a breakfast at Persephone and a lunch at Coelette. Both were delicious.

There was one thing that put a small damper on things during Beau’s visit. The Truma water heater/furnace started acting up again. Beau and I went to take showers one evening, and we couldn’t get any hot water. I was so glad I had an upcoming appointment at Airstream of Utah in Salt Lake City because I would need it. Not being able to take a shower when you want or need one is not okay.

Before long, Beau had to head back to Texas, and our holiday weekend had come to an end. Boo. However, fortunately for me, I had Grand Teton National Park to look forward to next.

Grand Teton National Park

The day Beau left, which was early September, some freak weather came through. I stepped outside of the Airstream after a nap to find this:

It was cold, and I had a broken furnace. I needed to get to some hookups. I settled on a more “luxury” RV park than I usually prefer, but it was slim pickings outside and inside Grand Teton National Park. After checking in, Addie and I headed into the park. Luckily by then, the aftermath of the snowpocalypse was melting.

We headed first to Jenny Lake - one of the classic areas of the park. The melting snow added a majestic touch to the scenery.

We stopped at Mormon Row, which you may recognize - the John Moulton Barn and the T. A. Moulton Barn are among the most photographed sites in the park.

We headed out the next morning for more exploring, heading back toward Jenny Lake. We didn’t have a plan other than to let the day happen.

On the way to the Jenny Lake area, I passed by a parking lot that seemed to be filling up quickly - Taggart Lake Trail. I knew this was a quick yet scenic hike and would feel comfortable leaving Addie in the car for the time it took me to go out and back. It’s only about three miles.

With the sun shining and the freshly-fallen snow from the day before, the trail was beautiful. The hike wasn’t too challenging, but the sites of Taggart Lake at the end made it feel like I earned it.

Addie was okay in the car. The temperature was perfect for her to chill in the back seat with the windows open. I started speaking to a few others in the parking lot and heard that the hike to Inspiration Point at Jenny Lake was a can’t-miss. I decided that was what I’d do next.

This one was a little different. I took a 12-minute shuttle boat across Jenny Lake to get to the trailhead, which provided a different perspective. The 1-mile hike to Inspiration Point presented stunning views of Jenny Lake. After checking out Hidden Falls on the way down, I hiked the Jenny Lake Trail along the lake back to the Jenny Lake Visitor Center, where I was parked.

It was a great day in the park, primarily because my plan did not involve a plan.

Later in the day and Addie and I headed to our “bougie” RV park to pack up. The following morning we would leave Jackson and go north towards Yellowstone. But, to get to Yellowstone, we needed to drive through more of Grand Teton. No complaints from me on this, as there was more of Grand Teton to see. Like Morman Row at sunrise.

During the wee hours, we got up to get to the prime location for sunrise shots of the John Moulton Barn. Of course, there were other people there to get good photos. It was a unique situation. We were all there, waiting for the sun to rise. To pass the time, we chatted and laughed together. There was a father and son, a German girl solo traveling, a young married photographer, and an older gentleman (and me). I’m not sure if we had anything in common except for our desire to get the money shot. It was fun. And worth the freezing temperatures.

After making some coffee in the Airstream, Addie and I hit the road north toward Yellowstone, passing more beautiful scenery on the way out.

Between Jackson and Grand Teton, this week was one for the books. Seeing Beau was a breath of fresh air, and, of course, getting out into the mountains was as well. I was on a bit of a Rocky Mountain high, which would continue through my time at Yellowstone National Park.