#49: Pando, Tires, and Truma

By this time, I started making my way back up towards Salt Lake to get my Truma water heater/furnace replaced.

With all of this driving lately (these states out West are huge), I began to notice the tires on my car were getting pretty worn. Since I do much driving on unpaved, rocky roads, I didn't want to push it with vulnerable tires. I also didn't need a highway blowout to add to my list of things to fix.

I found a tire center in Richfield, UT, a large(r) town in the vicinity of where I was. Calling ahead, I ensured they would have the tires I needed by the time I arrived.

But first, a quick jaunt to Pando. A friend of mine mentioned Pando while I was in Salt Lake the first time around. I hadn't heard of it; that's what Google is for.

• Pando is referred to as the Trembling Giant due to the leaves' sound with just the slightest wind.

• It's a grove of quaking aspens in the Fishlake National Forest in Utah.

• The grove is a single organism, as all the trees share a root system.

• Unlike other trees, these aspens sprout from the parent tree's lateral root, making each tree a stem of a massive single clone.

• The word "Pando" is Latin for "I spread."

The above makes Pando the most massive living organism, spanning over 100 acres. However, there is an absence of young, regenerative stems to replace the older trunks due partly to deer and elk's overgrazing in recent years. That, combined with the regular deterioration of the older trees, makes Pando extremely vulnerable to shrinking. In time, Pando could completely die off. Teams of scientists are on it, though, studying the reasons for the decline to adapt accordingly. 

We slept among Pando at Doctor Creek Campground near Fish Lake. We hiked the trembling aspens, and it was unforgettable. We hit it at the perfect time when the aspen leaves were bright yellow.

After our hike, we hit the road for Richfield. The only decent place to stay was a KOA (Kampgrounds of America). I usually don’t opt for this chain campground, but I was okay with it because:

1. It was inexpensive.

2. I could refill the fresh water tank.

3. I could dump the wastewater tank.

4. I could do laundry.

5. I could take a shower.

Our first stop the next morning was the tire center. After waiting a few hours and dropping a pretty penny, we were off towards Salt Lake to get our replacement Truma.

We crashed at a Walmart parking lot about an hour south of SLC. I didn’t need anything fancy as I had just showered that morning, and my only requirement was being somewhat close to the dealership to get there first thing the next morning. Plus, I was used to parking lots by now.

I cannot believe I am writing this, but this visit to an Airstream dealership service center was, wait for it…quick and easy. It took the Airstream of Utah team a few hours to replace the Truma, test it to ensure it’s working correctly and consistently, and send me on my way. The feeling of driving away with a new working furnace/water heater was indescribable. I had been dealing with this wonky thing for my entire trip, and now I was sailing (driving) off into the sunset with a brand-new (working) unit. Life was good.

#37: Olympic National Park

Where do I begin with my visit to Olympic National Park? Our time on the Olympic Peninsula was tumultuous, but it’s an incredible park and, so far, a favorite. Let’s get into it.

Olympic National Park is in the most northwest corner of the continental United States. And it’s pretty large. Not only is its size a factor to consider when visiting, but how to get around is a consideration as well. There are no through roads in the park to connect you from one area to another. Instead, the main road (the red-ish line below) essentially circulates the park. Then, roads off of that get you inside the park to the different sections (except, of course, the coastline part - the red-ish road takes you right to that).

Olympic is unique in that it hosts coastline, rainforest, and mountains. Of course, I wanted to visit all of it. By the time I hit the road from Mount Hood, it was later in the day, so I drove about three hours and camped about an hour south of the Quinault Rain Forest area.

Coast

The next morning I headed out for the coast. Since it was still early, I couldn’t see much due to the marine layer. Great view, huh?

As we made our way up the coast, though, the marine layer lifted. Then, it was beautiful. We spent some time at Ruby Beach - Addie running around, me walking around, both of us taking in the beauty around us.

Rain Forest

The campgrounds in the park are plentiful, and a lot are first-come, first-serve. I made the 45-minute drive to Hoh Campground, in the Hoh Rain Forest. I arrived mid-day, and I was SHOCKED to find available campsites. Without spending too much time in shock, I grabbed one, unhitched, and explored, leaving Addie in the Airstream with the back door open to circulate the air.

The Hall of Mosses is a short, notable hike near the campground that I read as a must-see. This iconic trail takes you through an old-growth forest.

Near the Hall of Mosses is the Spruce Nature Trail, a 1.2-mile walk through new-growth and old-growth trees. It’s more of a walk than a hike, but it was worth the 20 minutes, at least for the creekside (Taft Creek) views.

I returned to the Airstream to find Addie safely lying down. She is so good. As the afternoon carried on, though, I noticed that Addie was becoming more noticeably uncomfortable. She was having horrible diarrhea and also vomiting bile. Later, my girl was asking to go out more frequently, to try to poop. I started to panic when she began pooping blood: not blood in her poop - just blood. For the entire night, I was taking her out every 20 minutes.

I had to get her to a veterinarian. After a quick google search, I found a reputable one called Olympic Veterinary Clinic in Port Angeles, a two-hour drive away. I would hit the road at 6 am to get there by 8 am, as soon as it opened.

We arrived at 8 am, and I called immediately upon arrival. With COVID precautions, no humans were allowed inside. Fortunately, they were able to take Addie within a few minutes. She was so confused, leaving me in the parking lot, but she had to go, and I had to stay. I thanked the vet tech, who was extremely reassuring - which I needed.

Within a few hours, the doctor called me. They diagnosed her with hemorrhagic gastroenteritis, likely from eating something toxic. I’m sure she found a spoiled piece of food at an old campsite or in the woods. She was severely dehydrated, so they put her on an IV for fluids and electrolytes. They also had her on medication to fight the infection. The vet kept her, monitored her all day, and called me regularly with updates. The staff was incredible. She stayed until the next morning, but I was content knowing that she was safe with the care she needed.

I took the day for laundry and to clean my car and Airstream. That night was my first time staying in a Walmart parking lot. It was a “nice” one, though, with views of the mountains.

When I picked Addie up the next morning, she was like a new dog. She had the usual pep in her step, and it was obvious she felt a lot better. The doctor sent us off with some bland wet food and five medications for me to administer over the next 1-2 weeks. But I had my girl back.

For the rest of the day, we laid low and relaxed. Addie needed it, and I did too. I wanted to make sure she was stable and feeling better before we started venturing out again. Another night at the lovely Walmart for us!

Mountains

The following day, with a healthier Addie in tow, we made our way (cautiously) to the mountain area of Olympic National Park - Hurricane Ridge. For the first time, we waited in a line of cars at the entrance - it made sense, though. It was 12:30 pm on a Saturday.

We got lucky and nailed a campsite inside the park at Heart O’ the Hills Campground. Yet again, it was a relief to have a 16-foot trailer because the campground spots were tiny.

After dropping the trailer, we drove about 15 miles to the Hurricane Visitor Center. After chatting with the ranger, I decided to hike a short trail while Addie rested in the car: High Ridge Trail to Sunrise Point. This hike was short but had a steep incline, allowing for breathtaking vista views (and some wildlife).

Our last stop at Olympic National Park was to Madison Falls. I found this short trail because it’s one of few that allows dogs. It is a paved path that takes you to an anticlimactic waterfall, but I was happy to be with Addie and take a little stroll with her. It was a positive way to wrap up the past several days on our emotional roller coaster.

#22: New Mexico: Part 2

Although I had visited Santa Fe in the past, I didn’t remember it well. I wanted to check it out again while I was in the area.

The tricky part with Santa Fe was finding a viable place to camp. For some reason, this was challenging. I’ve been on the road long enough to know what types of places I prefer and what types of places I like to avoid. I prefer national parks, state parks, and national forests (and of course BLM/government land), which are typically tucked away in natural surroundings. These places also attract people who want to camp, as opposed to live. RV parks (for the most part), on the other hand, are often a different vibe. Although parks and national forests AND private RV parks can be hit or miss, many times private RV parks are filled with families, less active people and people residing for months at a time.

The type of campsite that I haven’t mentioned is the “alternative” campsite. What I mean by this is essentially a parking lot somewhere, usually of Walmart, Cracker Barrel, or other types of establishments. In my case, in Santa Fe, this meant a casino parking lot. Yes, that’s right. There were limited “natural” options in Santa Fe, and this casino allowed RV’rs to stay overnight (for free). The parking lot was HUGE, and it worked out perfectly.

I stayed at the Tesuque Casino for two nights, giving me a full day to explore Santa Fe. I drove my car, Airstream in tow, to a few of the areas of the city (I didn’t want to leave the Airstream in the casino parking lot unattended. I parked it on the street, took up two parking spots and simply paid the meter for both spots.). Art is a significant focus of the attractions in Santa Fe (including the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum and Meow Wolf). Unfortunately, my interest in select types of art is minimal, but I enjoyed the architecture and history. I walked around the plaza and saw the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi. I had Addie with me, so I didn’t visit any galleries, but I was able to pop into a few shops (and enjoy an outside margarita at The Shed).

I left early the next morning to make my way to a town called Truth or Consequences. On the route, was the Petroglyph National Monument, so I broke up the drive by making a trip there to hike and see the petroglyphs.

Truth or Consequences is an interesting place. At the very least, the town has an interesting name. I had reserved a campsite at Elephant Butte Lake State Park, which is probably a lot more bustling in the summer months. I arrived later in the day and made a plan to hike Turtleback Mountain the next day. After a quick coffee at Black Cat Books & Coffee, Addie and I set out to the trailhead.

Since the trailhead was unmarked, it was challenging to locate (I used AllTrails to find this hike). We met a friendly fellow hiker named Michael, who helped us find it, and we ended up hiking the entire trail with him (and his dog, Bella). This trail was only about 4.5 miles roundtrip, but an elevation gain of about 2,000 feet. It took us nearly 5 hours to complete. Michael and I chatted about many things as we hiked - work, relationships, life decisions, meditation - it was nice to have company and listen to engaging life stories from a stranger. Afterward, Addie and I were utterly exhausted and crashed back at the Airstream. Her poor little paw pads got blisters on them. Sadly, I think I may need to subject her to doggie boots....

The following morning I enjoyed coffee with a couple from Vermont who Michael and I had the pleasure of meeting while on our hike. They were also staying at Elephant Butte State Park. They have an interesting story: They live and work in Vermont for the spring and summer and travel in the southwest (mostly New Mexico) during the colder months. There is always an alternative way of living your life!

I hit the road after coffee and headed south to Silver City, NM. I wasn’t planning to, but my GPS took me through the Gila National Forest. That drive, although beautiful, was very annoying. I twisted and turned through switchbacks and curves, in the rain, towing the Airstream. If it were clear skies and I was in a sports car it would have been a different story…

Silver City is an old silver mining town currently noted for outdoor recreation, a mild climate (low humidity, four gentle seasons and 300+ days of sunshine a year), and historic downtown area. From there, I thought about visiting the Gila Cliff Dwellings, but that was a two-hour drive BACK through the Gila National Forest. I did not feel like getting back in the car the next morning (plus, no dogs allowed). Of course, I hemmed and hawed and ultimately decided not to go. Instead, with poor weather, I took a day to relax and briefly tour the historic downtown.

It was in Silver City when I noticed an existing leak in my Airstream had gotten much worse. I had water dripping in the trailer overnight and had no choice but to catch the dripping water in a bucket on the galley countertop.

A pot wasn’t large enough to sustain the dripping overnight…

ADDITIONALLY, my heat thermostat/panel was not activating. I had to get the trailer into the dealership and get these things fixed as soon as possible. I couldn’t keep traveling with these issues. All of this leads to post #16, when I took the Airstream to the dealership in Albuquerque for service.