#57: Southern Arizona & Saguaro National Park

I went back and forth a lot with how to navigate Arizona. It's a massive state with so much to offer. I spent a lot of time mapping out what route makes the most sense. If I've learned anything on this trip, it's: do not wait to do something. If I want to do it, I can't think, "I'll do it later." I need to do it now. So, with this mantra in mind, I headed to the southeast part of the state.

While I was in southern Arizona, mainly for Saguaro National Park, I had two little towns on my radar: Bisbee and Tombstone. I checked out Bisbee first.

Bisbee

Like most of these small western towns, Bisbee started as a mining town in the late 1800s. The primary industry was mining until the 1970s when the mines closed. As people moved away for other opportunities, an influx of free-spirited artists found Bisbee an affordable place of creative inspiration. Now, it's culturally rich with a diverse population.

Addie and I got a last-minute reservation at an RV park right in the town called Queen Mine RV Park. Not only was the location convenient to explore Bisbee, but I also filled up and dumped Airstream tanks and charged the battery. 

Bisbee was cute. I'm not sure I "got" it, exactly, but it was eclectic, historic, and colorful. 

Tombstone

Tombstone is only about 30 minutes from Bisbee. I was psyched to see this place. Regretfully, I didn’t do enough research before visiting - I still haven’t seen the entire Tombstone movie. Rookie mistake. But, it was still very cool and “western.” Some would argue it’s a bit hokey, with the gunfight theaters and people dressed in period, but I ate it up. I also bought a pair of boots.

Some free, dispersed camping (boondocking) spots are great, and some are not. I happened to find an excellent one on the way from Tombstone to Saguaro. It was clean, quiet, spaced out, and far enough away to be secluded but close enough to be easy. It was also scenic.

Saguaro National Park

Saguaro National Park is in the Sonoran Desert. There are two sections of Saguaro National Park - Saguaro East (Rincon Mountain District) and Saguaro West (Tucson Mountain District). In the morning, we visited the east side, followed by the west side.

There are some trails to hike, and Addie and I did a few nature walks, but we mostly drove and shot photos. The west side seemed to bring me more excitement. The loop road becomes a dirt road, which is always more fun. Also, the west side seemed a lot less commercial. However, both were beautiful and filled with Saguaro and other types of cacti.

Here are some fun facts about Saguaros. I find them fascinating.

1. Saguaros are exclusive to the Sonoran Desert.

2. They are the largest cactus in the United States.

3. A saguaro can live to be 100-200 years old.

4. Saguaros have become a black market commodity, raking in thousands for hauls.

5. Saguaros may bloom flowers - the Arizona state flower - but only after the age of 35 years.

6. The roots are shallow and expand like an accordion to absorb water.

At this point of my journey, and for the past several weeks, I am feeling, well, tired. The travel has been so exhilarating, and I am ever-so-grateful to be experiencing what I am. However, I yearn to be stationary. I’m happy and good and enjoying it all, but I just wanted to acknowledge that for a second. I wouldn’t trade it for a second, and I’m fortunate to have an opportunity like this, but there are times when I wish I had a couch to lay on, nowhere to go, and a normal-sized freezer for ample cartons of ice cream.

For now, though, I’ll happily take my memory foam mattress pad on top of my Basecamp cushions, more exciting things to see and do in Arizona, and a freezer only large enough for a few Trader Joe’s pre-sauced pasta dishes.

Onward and upward…Perfect timing to meet my friend Alfredo at Lost Dutchman State Park outside Phoenix.

#56: Long-awaited Arizona

I headline this post the way I do because getting to Arizona took a while. My original plan was to visit Arizona after New Mexico in the spring, but because of COVID, I sheltered in place in Texas for two months. I didn’t get back on the road until May, and by then, I deemed it too hot to enjoy Arizona comfortably. Here I was, six months later, finally getting there.

I entered the state in the northeast corner. Even though it was out of the way, I was keen on visiting - or at least seeing - Monument Valley. Monument Valley is within the Navajo Nation, which is currently closed down due to COVID, so it wasn’t an option for me to go to the actual park. However, I could still drive to “Forest Gump Hill,” of which Monument Valley the backdrop.

If I were to have visited the park, I would have kept going straight on this road. However, because it was closed, combined with the fact that I wasn’t going in that direction, I turned around and headed back towards the road that would ultimately take me to Petrified Forest National Park.

It was a LONG drive to get there through the Navajo Nation - it seemed somewhat abandoned because nothing was open. Fuel stations weren’t even available. Also, I wanted to see a few other things in this area I couldn’t - Four Corners and Antelope Canyon. As I’ve said before, I can’t do everything - for one reason or another.

I had two options for camping at the south entrance of the park. Shockingly, they were both free, and both outside petrified wood gift shops. I opted for one - without really having a preference - and joined a few other campers. Or shall I say, “characters.” It was an eclectic group at the campground.

The entrance to the park was right there - this campground couldn’t have been more convenient.

Petrified Forest National Park started on the right foot with me because it’s dog-friendly. At the gate, I asked the ranger his recommendations for my day, and we were off.

The first stop was to the Rainbow Forest Museum & Visitor Center. The Giant Logs Trail followed, where we got our first glimpse of petrified logs. I was astounded by the colors and textures - unbelievable.

If you are curious, here is how petrified wood forms:

The Crystal Forest Trail warranted even more fascinating petrified wood. I found myself in awe, just staring at the colors and minerals in the wood-turned-rock.

I did not realize this, but “badlands” is a type of rock/land formation. I thought Badlands is only the name of the national park in South Dakota, but at Petrified Forest, there are “badlands.” Blue Mesa is a one-mile loop winding through purple, gray, and blue badlands.

The park’s northern end, north of the historic Route 66, is home to the Painted Desert Visitor Center and many beautiful overlook points. There is no doubt that the Painted Desert lives up to its name.

After only one day, we hit just about the entire park. All in all, I was pleasantly surprised: an easy park to navigate, small yet fulfilling, awe-inspiring, and dog friendly. Success.

#55: Canyonlands National Park & the Last of Utah

Canyonlands and Arches National Parks are often visited together because they are only about a 30-minute drive from one another. I took only one day to visit Canyonlands, and I did not see the park's southern portion - The Needles. I only explored the area called Island in the Sky - which is the most visited part and closest to Moab.

I especially loved this park. The views were spectacular. Addie and I visited Grand View Point, Buck Canyon, and Green River Overlooks, and from every angle, Canyonlands was fascinating. This landscape defines the wild west, with roads preserved and untouched today but made years ago for mining and other resources.

In the afternoon, we swung by Dead Horse Point State Park, which is right near Canyonlands' northern entrance. As legend has it, cowboys corraled horses into this point and then blocked them with branches and brush, so they were trapped. The cowboys took the horses they wanted and left the rest corralled on the point with no food and water. As an animal lover, I'm banking on this story being false.

Small hiking trails and paths surrounded the overview area of Dead Horse Point State Park. We walked around, stopping at different overlook views.

I craved a “real” shower and needed to do some laundry, so I found Archview RV Park outside Moab. I got a discount rate because part of the park was closed and I had such a small rig. 

The next morning, with freshly-washed hair and clean laundry in tow, I was off. 

I wanted to check out Lake Powell and Glen Canyon Recreation Area, a place I had heard about but didn’t know what to find there. The route was a roundabout one but very scenic. 

We drove to Bullfrog, UT, which is where the road (UT-276) meets a part of Lake Powell. I saw signs for a ferry, and after some investigating (mostly a chat with the ranger at the gate into Glen Canyon Recreation Area), I learned that the ferry takes you across the lake to Halls Crossing, where you can continue on UT-276.

It was indeed, an adventure. The next ferry was at 3:30 pm, and I was the only car inline (as the season is over). I hung out by the lake a bit before driving my entire rig onto the ferry. The captain even let us up on the top where he was so he could meet Addie.

The ferry dumped us right back onto the road; it was as if we didn’t take a ferry at all.

I continued driving until late afternoon when I started looking for a place to camp. I found some free land outside Blanding, UT, to stay for the night before crossing the state line into Arizona.

Ciao for now, Utah!

#54: Arches National Park

Arches National Park is not very large, but it’s like Zion or Yellowstone in that it’s a popular one, with a lot to see. To navigate it most efficiently, I consulted help from a third party called Dirt in my Shoes. I bought a 2-day itinerary (online) from Dirt in my Shoes, and it took the stress out of me having to plan out how I was to do it myself. 

I rolled into Moab - the town which hosts Arches - late afternoon. It was still cold but more manageable than it was in Colorado. On my way to some dispersed camping land, I drove right past the park entrance, so I went ahead and got my park sign photo out of the way. 

My dispersed campsite was good enough for one night. I mean, I really can’t complain about this view. 

As beautiful as this scenery is, I wanted a campsite where I would feel comfortable leaving the Airstream while exploring the park. This one was just not it.

The next morning, I left somewhat early to take a ride over to Goose Island Campground. One site was unoccupied, and I grabbed it. Soon thereafter, I unhitched the trailer and headed into the park. Simultaneously, I found a last-minute Rover sitter for Addie for the following day. There was a hike or two that I wanted to do and couldn’t bring her, unfortunately.

Addie and I ventured into downtown Moab to check out the scene. I grabbed a coffee and a bagel and visited a few shops. Nothing too eventful was happening, and I decided to make my way to the park.

Arches - Day 1:

I was shocked to find the entrance to the park uncrowded. I drove right in and didn’t have to wait in a line. I couldn’t figure out where all the visitors were. It was cold, yes, but not that cold. I asked the ranger at the gate, and she told me that it is peculiar - but not to jinx it! 

Driving in, I was in awe of what I saw. As far as I could see were red rock formations, unlike anything I had ever seen. We stopped at the La Sal Mountains Viewpoint to take it all in.

According to the Dirt in my Shoes itinerary, it's best to visit Delicate Arch first thing in the morning to beat the crowds. But, since the park (oddly) was not busy, I decided to check it out that afternoon.

First, I drove to Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint and Lower Delicate Arch Viewpoint - eh. Delicate Arch was still so far away, lacking the "wow" factor. The DA trail was only 3.5 miles, and the weather was cool - so cool that it would not be a problem to leave Addie in her comfy bed in the back seat of the car with the windows opened. She is so good. I also read that DA is best to visit in the late afternoon, so the timing was perfect.

I hustled on the trail, though. I hate leaving Addie. When I turned the corner to find the iconic Delicate Arch waiting for me, I was awestruck. It was breathtaking.

On the way back out of the park, we stopped at a few more overlooks. Beauty everywhere. Including fluffy white beauty.

Arches - Day 2:

I got an early start the following morning. Even though the park wasn’t busy the last few days, I was still playing it safe by getting to the park early. I packed up, left the campsite, dropped Addie off at her sitter, and drove to the most northern end of Arches National Park. Double O Arch hike was first on the agenda for today. 

I hit the trail by 8 am. Once again, it was cold, but it got warmer as I continued moving. This trail had so many arches, including Landscape, Navajo, and Partition Arches. The final and farthest arch to see was the Double O Arch. At times the trail was ambiguous, but I found it with the help of a few hiking buddies I met along the way.

On the way out, I stopped by the Windows Section. Here live even more arches.

The one last stop I made was to Park Avenue and Courthouse Towers - named after what these rock formations resemble.

I finished my second day at Arches earlier than planned, which was fine because I was ready to pick up Addie from the sitter. I scooped her very happily, got back in the car, and was on my way.

Canyonlands National Park was next, and not at all that far away.

#53: Great Sand Dunes & Mesa Verde National Parks

Great Sand Dunes National Park

From Colorado Springs, Great Sand Dunes National Park is about a 3.5-hour drive. I was glad to be heading south because the weather was turning - it was snowing with freezing temperatures when I hit the road.

I reserved a two-night camping reservation at Pinon Flats, the campground within the park. I was surprised to get a reservation (mostly because it was for Friday and Saturday night), but I don’t ask questions when I get lucky.

Maybe I’m spoiled, but in viewing these dunes, it was a grim comparison to the dunes I saw in New Mexico at White Sands National Park. Those dunes were just so incredibly white, which made them unique. I think what was interesting about these dunes in Colorado was that they had white snowcap mountains in their background. And, they were massive. Beach dunes are not as enormous and vast. 

The park is small, and the campground was easy to locate. And it was tough to beat the view:

Our first activity on the agenda was, of course, the dunes. Because (sarcasm here) Addie and I are always so lucky, we picked the windiest day to visit sand. This is how it went.

It. Was. So. Windy.

The photos without Addie and me in them are way more appealing. The dunes were beautiful - especially with the bluest of skies as the backdrop.

I don’t love sand. The dunes are pretty to look at, but I don’t need to walk in them - especially on a windy day like this one was. Addie and I quickly B lined for the “forest” side of the park for a hike. We were much happier. And, I should note, dogs are allowed on the dunes and some trails.

After our hike, we drove to the park entrance for our standard park sign photo. We also caught some glimpses of the late afternoon over the dunes.

Back to the campsite, it was. There, we stumbled upon a stellar sunset.

Mesa Verde National Park

Mesa Verde is another 3.5 hours west of Great Sand Dunes. I had never driven through this part of Colorado; it’s not as picturesque as the drive along I-70 (through Vail, Breckenridge, Golden, etc.), that’s for sure.

It was frigid. Very, very cold. I’m not sure if it was the low temps or the off season, but as I got closer to Mesa Verde, it seemed like fewer and fewer people were out and about. I was used to areas around the parks bustling with tourists and businesses, and this was the complete opposite.

I found an RV park right outside the Mesa Verde entrance, Ancient Cedars. Not only was the one campground inside the park closed for the season, but also, there were no hook-ups. Given these freezing temperatures, I wanted the option of keeping the heat and water heater on, even while I wasn’t in the trailer. I didn’t need any pipes freezing.  

Addie and I drove into the park before the sun went down, picking up a map at the (closed) visitor center.

We set out early the following day. I spoke to the ranger at the entrance gate, and she advised me on what was open, what was closed, and what I needed to check out. This park was a lot of history, and I was ready to learn.

Mesa Verde is a park that has preserved a lot of history, specifically the history of the Ancestral Pueblo people. The park includes 4,500 archeological sites. The open area that I visited, Chapin Mesa, features dwellings of ancestors from about 550 AD to about 1200 when they left the vicinity and relocated elsewhere.

Pit houses were the first types of homes built and used from 550 to 750 AD. Addie seems really interested in this stuff (first photo, bottom).

Around 750 AD, people began building houses above ground, with mud and poles—underground kivas, which served as social areas for religious, social, and utilitarian purposes, were positioned right outside the houses.

As time went on, architecture advanced to stone masonry. Living spaces were as high as two or three stores and adjoined to neighbors.

From about the 1190s to the late 1270s, homesteads evolved to cliff dwellings. Archeologists are not exactly sure why this move took place, but they speculate it could have been for enemy defense, natural elements protection, or religious purposes.

These cliff dwellings are so fascinating. It amazed me to see how well they are made and preserved.

I picked an excellent park not to hike because I wouldn’t have lasted the cold. At the height of the day, it was only about 15 degrees. I was so happy to have a campsite with electricity, as I could turn the heat on as high as I wanted, for as long as I wanted without risking running out of battery. 

Returning to Utah was next. I skipped over Moab, Arches National Park, and Canyonlands National Park the last time I was in Utah because I wanted to get to Colorado for the foliage - and before it got too cold in the high elevation. I made the right decision because I wouldn’t have wanted to be at a high altitude during this cold spell I was enduring.