#26: US Route 395

As I mentioned in my previous post, US Route 395 runs north and south on the eastern side of the mountain ranges in California. Typically, when California is visited, people go north and south on the Pacific Coast Highway (Route 1), the 101, or the I-5. But 395 is a hidden gem (at least it was for me).

Heading north on 395, I based my next destination on where I could find decent camping. I read that there is a lot of free land to camp on, but I found a first-come, first-served BLM campground for $10/night. I figured that was good enough, and I could scope out more extensively once I arrived. This campground was outside a small town called Lone Pine.

Well, I landed this spot and couldn’t have been happier - especially for somewhat wingin’ it.

The remarkable thing about this area along 395 is that the terrain goes from the desert, right to the mountains. There is not much as far as foothills. Even after exploring the Rockies, I had never seen anything like this (maybe on the western slope…sort-of?).

I learned that the trailhead for the hike up Mount Whitney (the highest peak in the contiguous United States) is here outside Lone Pine. Also, Alabama Hills. Alabama Hills is where many-a-westerns have been filmed and is famous for its unique rock (hill) formations.

After hiking around Alabama Hills and exploring Lone Pine after grabbing some lunch there, I started doing some research on more places to hike. I wanted to experience the start of the Mount Whitney trail. I had read there was a beautiful lake about 3.5 up the Mount Whitney Trail. However, I debated doing this hike immensely. Because of COVID, the paved road to drive to the trailhead was closed. Having to walk/hike this road added seven miles to the already 7-mile hike. BUT, Addie and I were up for the challenge, so we got up early the next morning and were on the trail (well, road) by 6:45 am.

It was worth every step. I got to the lake, and I was the ONLY person there. No crowds. No voices. Nothing. Just Addie, serene nature, and me. Words cannot describe that 30 minutes I spent up there.

After a wonderful few nights in Lone Pine, my intention was to keep heading up 395. As they often do, my plans got diverted. Due to some logistical reasons, I backtracked a little after visiting Lone Pine and headed back south. Even though I loved the mountains, I also wanted to see the coast. And it made sense to go back and do that at this specific time before I got too far north. So, I headed back to the coast to conquer that leg of the trip. I would come back to 395 afterward. To keep things simple, though, I’ll tell you about the rest of my time on 395 in this post (even though I visited other places in between).

Before I left Lone Pine, though, Addie and I got up before sunrise to have a photoshoot. Check out these photos:

After an incredible three days at Yosemite (more on that to come later), the eastern entrance/exit of Yosemite dumped me right back onto 395. There were a few other small towns I wanted to check out, including Bishop, Big Pine, Benton, Lee Vining, and Bridgeport. Bishop was a fantastic place to get some errands done - wash the car and the Airstream, fill up propane, dump the black tank, and fill up the freshwater tank.

Big Pine and Benton were small western towns. I found some BLM land near a hot spring north of Big Pine and Benton to camp for a night or two. This area has a lot of hot springs. After testing out a few, though, I have decided that I don't love them. They are usually crowded, which means people have to wait to get in until others get out, and the water is shallow. With a murky appearance, the water is not so inviting. The campsite nearby worked out fine, though. Live and learn on the hot springs. It was still cool to check them out.

A few people I met in the hot spring suggested I check out a small ghost town called Bodie. It was on my way to Bridgeport, where I was going next, so I decided to make the stop (they had me at "ghost town"). It was AWESOME. The road to get there was a bit long and cumbersome (especially with the Airstream in tow), but it was worth it. After paying a nominal state park fee to get in, I was astounded at what I saw. It's like the townspeople just got up and left this place. Clothes were still hanging on hooks, bedding was still intact, and stores still had products on shelves. See for yourself:

After visiting Bodie, it was on to Bridgeport. I had a campground in mind after speaking to a couple while camping in the San Bernadino National Forest. I headed straight for it. Luckily, there were plenty of campsites available for me to cozy up in a prime spot.

Bridgeport is a small cowboy town. And it’s beautiful. Nestled in a grassy valley, surrounded by mountains, it’s very small-town America. See brochure below to get an idea. My campground was in some of the mountains surrounding the town - about a 20-minute drive outside. There are hot springs here, too, which I did check out. I found the same situation as the other one, so I never ended up going in. I did fall down while “hiking” to them in my Birkenstocks. That was fun (sarcasm).

Usually, wherever I go I try to find a cool hike relatively close by. I found one, but then stumbled upon a different one. It often works out that way. In fact, a lot of what I do works out that way!

This was my stumbled-upon hike. Barney Lake was my reward after about four miles.

My final stop on 395 was Mammoth Lakes. I met my friends Chris and Allison and their two kids for the 4th of July weekend. It. Was. So. Fun. We found some cool lakes, did some hiking with the kiddos, hit up a few breweries, and explored the area. I also really enjoyed staying in a condo for a few days and taking real showers (thanks, guys!). hehe.

If you haven’t gathered, I loved all my stops on 395. The best part about it was that 395 wasn’t even going to be part of my route until I spoke to people who told me it was a can’t-miss. They were right. I’ve found some new favorite places and I shall return to them one day. For now, though, there is more of CA to explore!

Also, I realize I rarely mention Addie in this post (shameful!). If you are wondering, she feels the same way as I do about all the places on 395 that we visited.

#12: Hot Springs National Park

Hot Springs National Park was/is an anomaly in my mind when it comes to National Parks. I didn’t really understand what exactly it was. And, although now I understand what it is, to be honest, I’m still a little unclear how it’s a National Park. But, regardless, visiting this park was really quite an experience and I know so much more now than I did before. And that’s the point, right?

When I checked in to the campground, I met the campground hosts and they were able to provide me with some intel on the park. I was on the fence as to stay one night or two, and decided to stay two nights after speaking to them. There are over 26 miles of hiking trails, as well as an entire town that makes up the National Park. I found it odd that the town IS the national park, but I went with it. I was also advised to experience an iconic bathhouse treatment.

The largest attraction is Bathhouse Row, which is essentially a block of historic bathhouses. Hot Springs is known for the thermal water - filled with minerals known for healing and soothing. As early as the 1500’s, this area became known for its healing waters from the 143-degree Fahrenheit spring. Later, business people flocked here to build and ride the wave of the public’s demand for the water. Without going into too much history (you can find more here), the “bathhouse” concept came and went. Modern-day medicine caught up to and surpassed the healing powers of the water, and bathhouse treatments morphed into what we now know as spa treatments (in a sense).

I’m going to use the majority of this post to walk through the steps of treatment I had at Buckstaff Bathhouse in Hot Springs. It was fascinating, weird and amazing all at the same time.

Step #1: Get Ready

I undressed and the attendant wrapped a white sheet around me, “toga” style. I couldn’t take photos in the bathhouse once undressed (obviously!), but here is the dressing/locker room:

I was asked to turn my back to the attendant as she wrapped the sheet around me and led me into the baths.

It looks a little “sterile” and outdated, but I had to remember that I was getting the same experience that someone in the early 1900’s would have been getting. I kept an open mind and went with it - it was cool! The bathhouse looks as it did when it was at its peak.

Step #2: Tub Bath

I was let into a room where bath “stalls” were lined up along the wall. Each stall had a curtain for privacy. The room was large and open and a little loud from running water everywhere…not at all what you’d find in a spa today.

The bath temperature was a maximum of 102 Fahrenheit and the bath lasted for 15 minutes. The attendant could increase or decrease the temperature to your liking. She took a loofa mitt and scrubbed me down on my arms, legs, and back. I learned later that this was to get the blood flowing (not necessarily to “feel good”).

I arrived first thing in the morning so it was somewhat clear of other guests, but they started to trickle in as I was in the bath.

This photo is taken from a different bathhouse than the one I received my treatment, but it gives you an idea of what the bath “stall”/room looks like:

Step #3: Lay Down/Hot Packs

I was slowly escorted out of the bath to stainless steel tables in another section of the room. I was instructed to lay down (slowly) and the attendant wrapped me in steaming hot towels (literally wrapped me…they were tight around my body to keep the heat in), while at the same time put ice-cold towels on my face and head. I lied here for about ten minutes.

Also, the attendant kept giving me ice-cold water to drink - to stay hydrated, but also to reap the benefits of the vitamin and mineral-infused water from the inside my body.

*NOTE: I get really confused with lay vs. lie, so if I used the wrong words for this context, you know what I mean!

Step #4: Steam (Vapor) Cabinet

This was a weird one. I sat in a booth-type thing and a metal horizontal “door” enclosed my lower body (below the neck) into its own space to be steamed. My head remained out of the contraption. This lasted for five minutes.

After five minutes, she opened the metal doors so I could breathe in the steam and my face could reap the benefits of the vapor (two minutes for that).

Step #5: Sitz Tub

This was a weird one, too. I literally sat my butt in a tub. My feet, legs, and upper body were out of it. The water was very hot and this was to focus on your hips and lower back. Apparently, this was common for women to do after childbirth to reposition things back to where they were supposed to be (?).

As awkward as it was, it felt good!

Here is a photo of a steam cabinet (right) and sitz tub (left).

Step #6: Needle Shower

The looks of this shower hold true to its name. This is a shower stall with many different small water spouts all around the shower and top of the shower. The spouts are small, so the water comes out forcefully. I was in the needle shower for two minutes. At this stage in the treatment, lukewarm water is used and gets your body ready for a massage afterward.

Here is a photo to give you an idea. Again, this was not the actual shower I used, but mine looked similar. There are water holes all along the pipes you see.

Step #7: Swedish Massage

The last part of the treatment is a 20-minute Swedish massage. The massage was a full-body massage, but I was asked if I had any areas that needed more work than others. Of course, I said my neck and back because that is where most of my tension is these days from driving and sleeping in the Airstream.

This is Jennifer, my massage therapist (taken post-my treatment…). I gave her a Lyfe in Tow sticker. :)

Other than my treatment at Buckstaff Bathhouse, I took a tour of the Fordyce Bathhouse which is actually the park’s visitor center. All of the “inside” shots of a bathhouse that I have shown were taken from that location. Fordyce was a “first-class” bathhouse where the “who’s who” went to bathe, socialize and receive therapy. The cool thing is that there was a bathhouse for every individual’s social status. Even people who didn’t come from a wealthy background could reap the benefits of the water.

I also hit up a brewery on Bathhouse Row, filled up my water bottles from public spigots on the street (all the locals do this - they bring huge jugs and come once a week to get drinking water because the city water is not the same as the spring water) and went on a few hikes.

Also, I made friends with my campground neighbors, Denise and Dave, from Minnesota. Overall it was a great stop on my journey and I’m really glad I got to experience Arkansas and the infamous Hot Springs!

A few more photos are below.