#19: Guadalupe Mountains & Carlsbad Caverns National Parks

Upon leaving Marfa, I headed north to two smaller national parks: Guadalupe Mountains National Park in Texas and Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico. Although these parks are in two different states, they are only about a 45-minute drive from each other. Both being smaller national parks, I hadn’t planned on spending more than three days in the two parks combined.

About a two-hour drive from Marfa, I arrived at Guadalupe Mountains NP mid-day. This park is in the northern part of the Chihuahuan Desert, whereas Big Bend NP is in the southern part of the Chihuahuan Desert. I reserved a campsite for two nights. The camp”site” was basically a parking lot, which was a little disappointing. However, my fellow campers were super nice and helpful.

That afternoon, I decided to do a hike called Devil’s Hall, which would take at least a few hours. The weather was moderate and not hot at all, so Addie was completely fine relaxing in the trailer while I hiked (again, no dogs were allowed on the trails).

The next day I’d head out to Guadalupe Peak - the highest peak in Texas. This hike was going to be longer and more rigorous, but I figured while I’m there I should do it. Plus, I was told the views were incredible from the peak (~8,700 ft).

The hike to Devil’s Hall was respectable - the landscape was diverse and it was a lot of rock scramble (which I like). I was hiking solo, but I did run into a few other hikers along the way so I didn’t feel unsafe. After walking up a set of naturally-formed rock steps, I was almost at the destination. When I got there I understood why they call it Devil’s “Hall.”

On the hike back, I met a fellow traveler and new friend, Gerard. He and I hiked back together (getting a little lost on the way) and chatted the entire time. This is what I love about this trip: I meet so many interesting people by happenstance. Gerard and I enjoyed a drink and some soup back at my Airstream that night.

Given the weather forecast of freezing cold temperatures and a wintery mix, I made the decision to switch up my plans a bit. I’d take the bad weather day and drive to Carlsbad Caverns NP and then the day after do the hike to Guadalupe Peak. I love hiking, but I hate being miserable due to the weather. Plus, the visibility would have been zero when I got to the peak. No fun.

Gerard and I met in the morning at Carlsbad Caverns NP. The weather was SHIT. Freezing, windy and wet, we were happy to be underground. This park had a kennel for dogs, so I was able to bring Addie with me and put her in a warm kennel while Gerard and I hiked the cave. It was really hard to leave her, but it was the best thing to do - she would be warm and safe.

To get down to the caverns, you can hike/walk or take an elevator. We opted to hike it so we could see more. We ended up hiking down the equivalent of 95 stories of a building. Our ears popped a few times going down and taking the elevator back up.

At 56 degrees Fahrenheit at all times (all seasons) the caverns were breathtaking. And huge! I was amazing by how many different rock formations could be present in the same cave. There were so many different types of textures, shapes and sizes. My favorite were the ribbon type, which I’m sure you can identify among the photos below. To date, there are 119 known limestone caves in the park (with more to be discovered in time).

Gerard and I headed out of the park for a quick bite before we went our separate ways - of course, after taking a photo and posting to Instagram. 😃

The next morning was, again, crappy weather. As I’ve said before, some things are just out of my control. Foregoing the highest peak in Texas, I headed out that day to explore the rest of New Mexico.

#15: Big Bend National Park

I got up early one morning to make the two-hour drive from Marfa to Big Bend NP. The drive was incredible. It was a gorgeous sunny day and as a creature of the weather, I was feeling it. The landscape is just so vast and open, with plateaus just popping up along the flatness of the high desert.

Some quick fun facts on this area: The Big Bend area of Texas is located in the Chihuahuan Desert - the most biologically diverse desert in the Western Hemisphere, and the largest desert in North America. The name, “Big Bend,” stems from the 90-degree angle of the Rio Grande. Big Bend is an entire region of Texas, not just the name of the park.

Upon entering the park, I reached the Panther Junction Visitor Center. I stopped in to speak to the ranger, get a map, watch the park movie and of course, show my annual NP pass for admission (I’m always so proud to show my annual pass). Having a full day to explore the park, I left the visitor center with a plan of action. I needed to stick to drivable roads given I had Addie with me. As I’ve mentioned previously with national parks, hiking trails that allow dogs are few and far between, but I was prepared for that. Even though I was limited, I didn’t feel it much given all the beauty I saw and all the ground I covered.

We ventured out with Santa Elena Canyon as our destination, knowing that we would stop along the way anywhere we wanted. We ended up on the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to take us down to the canyon. The drive was stunning. We took our time and made it to Santa Elena Canyon a few hours later. There weren’t many stops or pull-offs that I didn’t want to explore. Finally getting down to the canyon, I saw kayaks getting loaded in an out of the Rio Grande. I made a mental note to come back and kayak the canyon when the weather is warmer. It’s crazy to think that just across that river is Mexico!

I could have spent a week in this park - exploring, relaxing, learning and simply just taking it all in. An important lesson I’m learning on this journey is that I can’t do EVERYTHING. I may have mentioned that before. I am also learning that I need to go with the flow and adapt to what happens around me (goes back to my tried and true saying, “10% is what happens to me and 90% is how I react to it”). I had the day to explore the park and if I wanted to go back the next day, I could absolutely do that.

On the way back one of the areas that stood out was Sotol Vista. You take a windy road to get up there but you feel like you’re on top of the park once you get all the way up. I sat up there for a while. Just sat.

The next time I go to Big Bend NP (because there WILL be a next time), I will plan to camp there or at least stay there for an extended amount of time. By the time I made the drive back to Marfa, I was exhausted and felt like I covered as much ground as I could with having Addie with me.

Until the next time, Big Bend…

#12: Hot Springs National Park

Hot Springs National Park was/is an anomaly in my mind when it comes to National Parks. I didn’t really understand what exactly it was. And, although now I understand what it is, to be honest, I’m still a little unclear how it’s a National Park. But, regardless, visiting this park was really quite an experience and I know so much more now than I did before. And that’s the point, right?

When I checked in to the campground, I met the campground hosts and they were able to provide me with some intel on the park. I was on the fence as to stay one night or two, and decided to stay two nights after speaking to them. There are over 26 miles of hiking trails, as well as an entire town that makes up the National Park. I found it odd that the town IS the national park, but I went with it. I was also advised to experience an iconic bathhouse treatment.

The largest attraction is Bathhouse Row, which is essentially a block of historic bathhouses. Hot Springs is known for the thermal water - filled with minerals known for healing and soothing. As early as the 1500’s, this area became known for its healing waters from the 143-degree Fahrenheit spring. Later, business people flocked here to build and ride the wave of the public’s demand for the water. Without going into too much history (you can find more here), the “bathhouse” concept came and went. Modern-day medicine caught up to and surpassed the healing powers of the water, and bathhouse treatments morphed into what we now know as spa treatments (in a sense).

I’m going to use the majority of this post to walk through the steps of treatment I had at Buckstaff Bathhouse in Hot Springs. It was fascinating, weird and amazing all at the same time.

Step #1: Get Ready

I undressed and the attendant wrapped a white sheet around me, “toga” style. I couldn’t take photos in the bathhouse once undressed (obviously!), but here is the dressing/locker room:

I was asked to turn my back to the attendant as she wrapped the sheet around me and led me into the baths.

It looks a little “sterile” and outdated, but I had to remember that I was getting the same experience that someone in the early 1900’s would have been getting. I kept an open mind and went with it - it was cool! The bathhouse looks as it did when it was at its peak.

Step #2: Tub Bath

I was let into a room where bath “stalls” were lined up along the wall. Each stall had a curtain for privacy. The room was large and open and a little loud from running water everywhere…not at all what you’d find in a spa today.

The bath temperature was a maximum of 102 Fahrenheit and the bath lasted for 15 minutes. The attendant could increase or decrease the temperature to your liking. She took a loofa mitt and scrubbed me down on my arms, legs, and back. I learned later that this was to get the blood flowing (not necessarily to “feel good”).

I arrived first thing in the morning so it was somewhat clear of other guests, but they started to trickle in as I was in the bath.

This photo is taken from a different bathhouse than the one I received my treatment, but it gives you an idea of what the bath “stall”/room looks like:

Step #3: Lay Down/Hot Packs

I was slowly escorted out of the bath to stainless steel tables in another section of the room. I was instructed to lay down (slowly) and the attendant wrapped me in steaming hot towels (literally wrapped me…they were tight around my body to keep the heat in), while at the same time put ice-cold towels on my face and head. I lied here for about ten minutes.

Also, the attendant kept giving me ice-cold water to drink - to stay hydrated, but also to reap the benefits of the vitamin and mineral-infused water from the inside my body.

*NOTE: I get really confused with lay vs. lie, so if I used the wrong words for this context, you know what I mean!

Step #4: Steam (Vapor) Cabinet

This was a weird one. I sat in a booth-type thing and a metal horizontal “door” enclosed my lower body (below the neck) into its own space to be steamed. My head remained out of the contraption. This lasted for five minutes.

After five minutes, she opened the metal doors so I could breathe in the steam and my face could reap the benefits of the vapor (two minutes for that).

Step #5: Sitz Tub

This was a weird one, too. I literally sat my butt in a tub. My feet, legs, and upper body were out of it. The water was very hot and this was to focus on your hips and lower back. Apparently, this was common for women to do after childbirth to reposition things back to where they were supposed to be (?).

As awkward as it was, it felt good!

Here is a photo of a steam cabinet (right) and sitz tub (left).

Step #6: Needle Shower

The looks of this shower hold true to its name. This is a shower stall with many different small water spouts all around the shower and top of the shower. The spouts are small, so the water comes out forcefully. I was in the needle shower for two minutes. At this stage in the treatment, lukewarm water is used and gets your body ready for a massage afterward.

Here is a photo to give you an idea. Again, this was not the actual shower I used, but mine looked similar. There are water holes all along the pipes you see.

Step #7: Swedish Massage

The last part of the treatment is a 20-minute Swedish massage. The massage was a full-body massage, but I was asked if I had any areas that needed more work than others. Of course, I said my neck and back because that is where most of my tension is these days from driving and sleeping in the Airstream.

This is Jennifer, my massage therapist (taken post-my treatment…). I gave her a Lyfe in Tow sticker. :)

Other than my treatment at Buckstaff Bathhouse, I took a tour of the Fordyce Bathhouse which is actually the park’s visitor center. All of the “inside” shots of a bathhouse that I have shown were taken from that location. Fordyce was a “first-class” bathhouse where the “who’s who” went to bathe, socialize and receive therapy. The cool thing is that there was a bathhouse for every individual’s social status. Even people who didn’t come from a wealthy background could reap the benefits of the water.

I also hit up a brewery on Bathhouse Row, filled up my water bottles from public spigots on the street (all the locals do this - they bring huge jugs and come once a week to get drinking water because the city water is not the same as the spring water) and went on a few hikes.

Also, I made friends with my campground neighbors, Denise and Dave, from Minnesota. Overall it was a great stop on my journey and I’m really glad I got to experience Arkansas and the infamous Hot Springs!

A few more photos are below.

#10: December and the Holidays in Florida

December was busy! Perhaps I did that on purpose because I tend to glaze over the holidays each year (last year on Christmas, I was hiking Kilimanjaro). I was happy to be in the warm temperatures of Florida…that always makes me feel like I’m on vacation. My Florida travels went like this:

St. Augustine —> Winter Garden —> Jupiter —> Ft. Lauderdale —> Miami Beach —> Key West

St. Augustine

I loved this city and the time I spent there. The weather was perfect, I stayed in an incredible State Park (Anastasia State Park), and the city is full of history and character. Addie and I walked around for an entire day – popped into shops, did a trolley tour, and even had lunch on a dog-friendly patio. It was a great day. Very cool city and worth a trip.

The stressful part took place when I went to leave. For whoever saw my Instagram about a month ago, this is when the lock on my overhead cargo carrier got stuck. After a mild panic moment, it worked itself out (as most things do!).

Winter Garden

Remember the family I stayed with over Thanksgiving? Well, one of their daughters, Maura, lives in Winter Garden with her husband and two children. She wasn’t able to make it to South Carolina for Thanksgiving, so I made a stop to her. I hadn’t remembered the last time I saw her. I had such a nice time folding into their lives for a few days – walked their oldest daughter, Isla, to school, caught up on time lost over the years, and explored Winter Garden a bit – cute town! The best part was that so many years had gone by since I last saw Maura, but it was like we picked up where we left off.

How did I not take any good photos when I was there??

Jupiter

A close friend of mine from childhood’s parents (The Kellersmans) retired down in Jupiter. Growing up, I spent a lot of time with these guys, as their daughter, Lauren, and I have been friends since second grade. How lucky I felt to have been taken back into their home 30 years later. Addie and I had a blast with Mr. and Mrs. K! We went to the dog beach, visited a turtle sanctuary, toured around Jupiter (I had no clue so many pro golfers live there), and we just hung out, caught up, and laughed like old times. Mrs. K even surprised me by baking my mom’s special chocolate cake!

Looking back, I barely remember that the first morning there, I woke up to a deflated tire on my car. I ran over a nail…again. $400 later, I had two new back tires…YEAH (eye roll)!

Ft. Lauderdale

My high school friend, Steve, lives in Ft. Lauderdale with his family. I hadn’t seen Steve in probably about eight years, but you know how it is with good friends: so much time can go by, but it’s like no time had passed at all. He and his (awesome) wife have two beautiful children, and I had a blast spending time with them and gearing them up for Christmas. We dined at their yacht club (I’m REALLY roughing it…), and Steve and I hit the town one night for some people-watching (it was QUALITY).

I took a day trip one day to do an airboat ride…this is when I saw my first alligator and cried. Literally cried from happiness. I had a moment of “this is why I’m on this adventure!”

Miami Beach

I stayed in Miami Beach for about a week. My friend, John (“Johnny J”), lives there and he welcomed Addie and me at his apartment through Christmas. I met John when I was in college, studying abroad in Madrid. He is from Columbus and lived in NYC when I lived there. So, over the (many) years, we meet up in different cities when our paths cross and have become dear friends.

The weather was a little chilly, but we managed to hit the town a bit, relax and take a few day trips to Everglades National Park and Biscayne National Park. It was fun to have John join me at these parks. We did (more) airboat-ing, snorkeling, paddle boarding, and also enjoyed a few tours to learn about both parks.

You may (or may not be) wondering where the Airstream was hanging out while I was in South Beach. She was tucked away safely in John’s work garage. Shout out to John’s co-workers for helping us out for the week!

Key West

Key West was sort-of a “mile-marker” (no pun intended) for my trip. When mapping out my route, I knew I was meeting up with friends there, so this stop was very much planned and sort-of served as the end of Chapter 1 of this journey. It’s crazy to think I’ve been on the road for two months.

It’s peak season in Key West this time of year - so it’s a zoo. I am so lucky and grateful that my stepmom’s brother-in-law has a marina there. I was able to leave the Airstream, and my car, at the marina while I stayed in a hotel with my friends. It couldn’t have worked out any better.

I met up with my close friends from England in Key West (this is the friend who helped me map out my route before deciding to embark on this epic journey). Knowing this was going to be a beach “vacation,” I got Addie a Rover.com sitter* so she could relax in a house while I hit the beach, pool, and town.

Perhaps my favorite National Park yet, I had the rare opportunity to visit Dry Tortugas National Park. This park is located about 68 miles off the coast of Key West - only accessible by boat or plane. After doing some research, I splurged and took a seaplane, which was part of what made the experience so memorable. On the way back, I got to sit in the cockpit with the (not-so-bad-to-look-at) pilot. Get this: BECAUSE I WAS SINGLE. That’s right.

Aside from my trip to Dry Tortugas, we spent the week lounging by the pool, feasting on delicious meals and relaxing. Visiting with my friend and her family was exactly what I needed to ring in the new year. I was able to reset and center myself a bit before heading into 2020, as well as the ten remaining months of my “Lyfe in Tow.”

*Addie had the best sitter and enjoyed her week of consistency in an actual house. I worry that having a different routine each day from living on the road creates an uneasy feeling for her, but she is a trooper (and an excellent travel companion). Regardless, she had a lovely time with Haley and her dog, Waylon, and Mom didn’t have to worry about her!

#7: Great Smoky Mountains National Park

First, I’d like to recognize that I fully acknowledge I’m behind on writing. :)

My time after Tennessee and before Thanksgiving (South Carolina) was a little up and down, and a little decide-as-I-go. Weather was the main factor, as I ran into some heavy, heavy rain leaving Tennessee.

Long story short, I “lost” a day due to the weather - it POURED for about 24 hours straight. There wasn’t much I could do outside so I hibernated a bit in the Airstream and ran a few late afternoon errands.

The next day I’d get up early and head to Great Smoky Mountains National Park for a morning hike. The tricky bit with this park is that dogs are not allowed on the hiking trails. Although I completely understand why (disruption of the park’s natural habitat and safety), it not only bums me out, but also poses logistical challenges with what to do with Addie (only option is to leave her in the trailer with the heat on - which she is fine with). I just never want to leave her for too long at a time. She is my travel buddy!

The campground I landed on was sub-par (actually, it was worse than that). It was about an hour outside the park and about 20 minutes from Asheville, NC - a place I wanted to explore. I didn’t want a campground too far in the mountains because I was concerned about snow. Good thing, because when I got into the park and found this:

Surprisingly, I was excited to see snow in the mountains. It just provided a different type of beauty that I hadn’t gotten to experience yet on the trip. I was also probably excited because I wasn’t RESIDING in it and worrying about pipes freezing!

GSM NP is stunning. Absolutely stunning. It’s actually named a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) “World Heritage Site” for its natural beauty and global importance. I really wanted to spend more time there and see more sights, but the road that led where I wanted to go was closed due to the snow/ice. Oh well. I guess I’ll just have to return in warmer weather. I got a solid 2-hour moderate hike in, so I was satisfied. I also spent some time around one of the visitor centers where they had a “homestead” set up like it would have been at the turn of the century. I’m a sucker for history.

One thing I noticed in the “homestead” area that I want to mention: Some people have no appreciation for what these parks are here for and what they provide to us. I witnessed kids banging on signs, kicking old wooden structures and nearly vandalizing what the park had put there to educate and preserve. The parents said and did nothing - like they didn’t even notice that their children’s actions were wrong. It was rather disturbing and left me somewhat disgusted. To me, it was representation of the lack of appreciation and respect “we” have for: a) things that aren’t ours (duh), and b) preservation of land and the hard work that people have done to conserve and protect. This was probably what got the gears going in my head about land preservation (more to come on this later).

That afternoon, Addie and I headed into Asheville to check out the city that I’ve heard so much about. It was a really cool town and we both enjoyed it. I found a parking spot and we walked around, popped into some shops (ones that allowed four-legged guests), found a dog-friendly heated patio (it was cold, which is probably why I don’t have too many photos) and enjoyed a gooey grilled cheese, delicious tomato soup and a local beer. I probably could have spent more time there if it were a tad warmer and I didn’t have Addie with me. If you’re wondering, I did not end up checking out the Biltmore - mostly due to time constraints and lack of wanting to leave Addie - although I did consider it.

By the time the next morning rolled around, I was so done with that campground. I really just wanted to get out of there…so I did!