#27: Back to the Coast (& Channel Islands National Park)

I didn’t take the most efficient route through California, as there was some backtracking. However, this often happens when: A) You are meeting people in specific places at specific times, and B) When people you meet along the way recommend new places to check out. The above is just another example of how a detailed, rigid plan only takes you so far (for me on this trip and for all of us in life!).

From Lone Pine, I headed down south on 395 to then head west to the coast. My next destination was Ventura. From there, I would take day trips to Ojai and Santa Barbara.

I booked a “cushy” RV park in Ventura called Waypoint. It was the only place to stay near the city – and it was right downtown somewhat along the water. The coolest part about it was that they only allowed vintage trailers and Airstreams. I fit right in. Plus, they had heavenly showers.

Ventura

Ventura is a California surfer, hippie town with a little grit to it. It reminded me a bit of Santa Cruz. After having a nice, long, hot shower, Addie and I walked around the downtown area, popping into shops. VERY dog-friendly city, which I love.

The following day I quickly hit up the local Saturday morning farmers market. Dogs were not allowed, but a nice gentleman at the entrance offered to watch Addie while I scoped it out.

Shortly afterward, I met up with a friend, Katie, from business school who lives in Ventura. After business school, she took a job at Patagonia, headquartered there. We took the dogs for a hike/walk in a nearby park and caught up after lost time. After Katie gave me some “organic” avocados and oranges from trees in her backyard, Addie and I hit the road to visit Ojai and Santa Barbara.

Little sidebar: Since COVID began, the national parks closed to visitors. At this time (mid-June), I was continually checking to see which parks were opening up and when. Channel Islands National Park (off the coast of the Ventura area) was closed every time I checked because visitors take a ferry to get to the islands. I had come to terms with the fact that I would not visit the Channel Islands. BUT (big "but" here), while hiking with Katie, she mentioned that her friends were going to the Channel Islands that weekend. It was then I learned that it was open!

I quickly arranged for another night at Waypoint and snagged a ferry reservation for the next morning. This change of plans pushed my timeline back one day, but it worked out for the best (more to come on why).

Okay, back to Ojai…

I had heard lovely things about Ojai – and that there was not much to do there, but I still wanted to see it for myself.

Ojai is beautiful. It’s a small town set in a valley and a little desert-y. The little downtown hosts galleries, new-age boutiques, and cafes, and the surrounding areas are home to ranches and nature trails. It’s a very spiritual place where many escape to find peace, wellness, and sanctuary. You can immediately tell by the vibe there - very Zen.

Because Ojai was a stop en route to Santa Barbara, I grabbed a coffee in a coffee shop and perused the town just a bit. I hit up a famous bookstore called Bart’s Books, but they didn’t let dogs inside. Boo.

I went to Santa Barbara and took it all in. Addie and I walked around a ton – on the main drag and then by the water. I have been to Santa Barbara a few times in the past, but I love it so much that I wanted to say hello. Honestly, not much to highlight from this particular visit.

Channel Islands National Park

The next morning I had an 8 am ferry to Anacapa Island via a company called Island Packers. Channel Islands National Park consists of five different islands. Anacapa is the smallest island and arguably the most picturesque. It's almost like the "classic" of the Channel Islands, so I chose to visit it.

What I didn't realize when choosing that particular island was that it is one of the most massive nesting places for the Western Gull. And at the time I visited, it was nesting SEASON. Gulls were EVERYWHERE. To the point where I had to flail my arms around with every step, so they didn't attack me. I walked over multiple dead gulls - including chicks. It's nature, so I love it, but I was ready to go when the time came.

Anacapa is also home to the largest brown pelican rookery in the United States. These guys congregated into one area of the island, and it was undeniable where they were. It didn't smell nice where they lived…

It was beautiful, though. I had a clear day, and the views were incredible. I also saw sea lions. After a short boat ride back to the harbor, and a 15-minute drive, I was in Ventura again. Katie and I walked the boardwalk with the dogs and wrapped up my weekend with some shrimp tacos on the pier.

Are you wondering where Addie was when I went to Anacapa Island? Katie helped me out with that. She and her dog sitter split the time and watched Addie for me. It was a treat to have someone I knew and trusted to stay with her while I explored a place she couldn’t go with me. Thanks, Katie!

#26: US Route 395

As I mentioned in my previous post, US Route 395 runs north and south on the eastern side of the mountain ranges in California. Typically, when California is visited, people go north and south on the Pacific Coast Highway (Route 1), the 101, or the I-5. But 395 is a hidden gem (at least it was for me).

Heading north on 395, I based my next destination on where I could find decent camping. I read that there is a lot of free land to camp on, but I found a first-come, first-served BLM campground for $10/night. I figured that was good enough, and I could scope out more extensively once I arrived. This campground was outside a small town called Lone Pine.

Well, I landed this spot and couldn’t have been happier - especially for somewhat wingin’ it.

The remarkable thing about this area along 395 is that the terrain goes from the desert, right to the mountains. There is not much as far as foothills. Even after exploring the Rockies, I had never seen anything like this (maybe on the western slope…sort-of?).

I learned that the trailhead for the hike up Mount Whitney (the highest peak in the contiguous United States) is here outside Lone Pine. Also, Alabama Hills. Alabama Hills is where many-a-westerns have been filmed and is famous for its unique rock (hill) formations.

After hiking around Alabama Hills and exploring Lone Pine after grabbing some lunch there, I started doing some research on more places to hike. I wanted to experience the start of the Mount Whitney trail. I had read there was a beautiful lake about 3.5 up the Mount Whitney Trail. However, I debated doing this hike immensely. Because of COVID, the paved road to drive to the trailhead was closed. Having to walk/hike this road added seven miles to the already 7-mile hike. BUT, Addie and I were up for the challenge, so we got up early the next morning and were on the trail (well, road) by 6:45 am.

It was worth every step. I got to the lake, and I was the ONLY person there. No crowds. No voices. Nothing. Just Addie, serene nature, and me. Words cannot describe that 30 minutes I spent up there.

After a wonderful few nights in Lone Pine, my intention was to keep heading up 395. As they often do, my plans got diverted. Due to some logistical reasons, I backtracked a little after visiting Lone Pine and headed back south. Even though I loved the mountains, I also wanted to see the coast. And it made sense to go back and do that at this specific time before I got too far north. So, I headed back to the coast to conquer that leg of the trip. I would come back to 395 afterward. To keep things simple, though, I’ll tell you about the rest of my time on 395 in this post (even though I visited other places in between).

Before I left Lone Pine, though, Addie and I got up before sunrise to have a photoshoot. Check out these photos:

After an incredible three days at Yosemite (more on that to come later), the eastern entrance/exit of Yosemite dumped me right back onto 395. There were a few other small towns I wanted to check out, including Bishop, Big Pine, Benton, Lee Vining, and Bridgeport. Bishop was a fantastic place to get some errands done - wash the car and the Airstream, fill up propane, dump the black tank, and fill up the freshwater tank.

Big Pine and Benton were small western towns. I found some BLM land near a hot spring north of Big Pine and Benton to camp for a night or two. This area has a lot of hot springs. After testing out a few, though, I have decided that I don't love them. They are usually crowded, which means people have to wait to get in until others get out, and the water is shallow. With a murky appearance, the water is not so inviting. The campsite nearby worked out fine, though. Live and learn on the hot springs. It was still cool to check them out.

A few people I met in the hot spring suggested I check out a small ghost town called Bodie. It was on my way to Bridgeport, where I was going next, so I decided to make the stop (they had me at "ghost town"). It was AWESOME. The road to get there was a bit long and cumbersome (especially with the Airstream in tow), but it was worth it. After paying a nominal state park fee to get in, I was astounded at what I saw. It's like the townspeople just got up and left this place. Clothes were still hanging on hooks, bedding was still intact, and stores still had products on shelves. See for yourself:

After visiting Bodie, it was on to Bridgeport. I had a campground in mind after speaking to a couple while camping in the San Bernadino National Forest. I headed straight for it. Luckily, there were plenty of campsites available for me to cozy up in a prime spot.

Bridgeport is a small cowboy town. And it’s beautiful. Nestled in a grassy valley, surrounded by mountains, it’s very small-town America. See brochure below to get an idea. My campground was in some of the mountains surrounding the town - about a 20-minute drive outside. There are hot springs here, too, which I did check out. I found the same situation as the other one, so I never ended up going in. I did fall down while “hiking” to them in my Birkenstocks. That was fun (sarcasm).

Usually, wherever I go I try to find a cool hike relatively close by. I found one, but then stumbled upon a different one. It often works out that way. In fact, a lot of what I do works out that way!

This was my stumbled-upon hike. Barney Lake was my reward after about four miles.

My final stop on 395 was Mammoth Lakes. I met my friends Chris and Allison and their two kids for the 4th of July weekend. It. Was. So. Fun. We found some cool lakes, did some hiking with the kiddos, hit up a few breweries, and explored the area. I also really enjoyed staying in a condo for a few days and taking real showers (thanks, guys!). hehe.

If you haven’t gathered, I loved all my stops on 395. The best part about it was that 395 wasn’t even going to be part of my route until I spoke to people who told me it was a can’t-miss. They were right. I’ve found some new favorite places and I shall return to them one day. For now, though, there is more of CA to explore!

Also, I realize I rarely mention Addie in this post (shameful!). If you are wondering, she feels the same way as I do about all the places on 395 that we visited.

#25: Heading East in California

Before this year, the only places I’d been in California were places on the coast - LA, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, etc. I had no idea what I was about to embark on when I decided to go east from the California coastline. Ironically enough, the places I never knew existed became my favorite spots in the state. That’s the thing, though. We all do it - we generalize. We think “California,” and we think the coast because that is what we see in movies or have visited. But like everything else, there is so much more than what is initially perceived. I digress. So, ANYWAY…

Because I was so close to San Diego, I headed down there for one night. I managed to secure a campsite at a San Diego county park. This way, I was close to the city, but not dealing with an RV park (I usually avoid RV parks if I can help it. Not only are they pricier because they include amenities such as playgrounds, game rooms, community areas, etc., but they also tend to have more families and parties staying for more extended periods - not campers. It’s more enjoyable for me to stay with like-minded folks.). 

An old friend from my hometown with whom I had reconnected recently had settled in San Diego, and he recommended I check out Sunset Cliffs. Here, I took in a short walk with Addie along the cliffs and watched surfers catch some waves (although, it appeared they were mostly hanging out in the water - I didn’t see many waves “caught”…). It was gorgeous, and it was here where I really felt I was in Southern California - surfboards on top of cars, people in wetsuits walking around, beach towns, and the sound of waves crashing.

As thrilled as I was to be near the ocean, I was anxious to hit the road for the San Bernadino Forest the next day. The same friend I mentioned earlier, Jared, was coming up to meet me the following day, so it was my job to scope out a campsite before him arriving. This camping trip was the first time I was camping in California, on forest service land. It’s not a state park, but it’s US-owned forest land. You can make reservations, but I hadn’t. I was wingin’ it.

I arrived around 2 pm on a Friday (as I write this months later, I now understand the downfall of that), and I was relying on snagging a first-come, first-served (abbreviated as “FF”) spot. I drove around and around. Although I saw open sites, I also saw “reserved” tags on each of them. I was confused because if some sites were FF, they shouldn’t be reserved. With the mentality of “you never know if you don’t ask,” I knocked on the camp host’s door to find out if I had any options. As luck would have it, there was one available site left. One of the people who had reserved a spot moved to a more desirable, FF spot. So, that reserved spot was now open for me. Close call, though. From then on, I learned to always get there early in the morning and preferably mid-week if I’m relying on snagging a FF site.

My spot overlooked the bathrooms, but I wasn’t complaining. I was thrilled to be there and have a place to camp. The trees were tall, the sky was blue, and I was breathing the fresh mountain air. I was in my happy place, and even the pit toilets couldn’t bring me down.

That afternoon, Addie and I took a ride to Big Bear Lake, which was about 12 miles from our campground. The lake was remarkable, and we moseyed around the little downtown area. Surprisingly, some shops were open, regardless of COVID.

In the morning, we set off on a nearby hike (Johns Meadow Trail). The weather was very odd. It was misty and foggy, and it even rained a bit as we climbed in elevation. I was not expecting that, but it was nice to be cooled off.

Jared arrived that evening, and we (Jared) cooked a yummy dinner and enjoyed catching up on the last 20 years over the campfire. I don’t think we stopped talking. The next day, Jared was heading back to San Diego, and I was staying another few nights at the campground. Before he hit the road, we made a quick trip here (this place was literally off the side of the road):

My original plan was to head back to the coast and head north along the Pacific Coast Highway. However, after speaking with Jared and a few others at this campground, my plans shifted around. From the San Bernadino Forest, I decided to go north up 395 (see map below), the highway that runs on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada mountains. Holy shit am I glad I did. More to come on this.

Addie and I spent our last day in the San Bernadinos taking on a highly-rated 8-mile hike. The hike was the perfect mix of moderate open trail, rock scramble, and shady forest. I felt I earned my couple glasses of wine back at the campsite before heading to bed. The next day would be spent driving up 395…which at this point, was unfamiliar territory. I had no idea what I was going to find on my way. That is a beautiful thing.

PSA: I should note something. If you haven’t noticed, I skipped Joshua Tree National Park. I will also skip Death Valley National Park. This is due to the excessive heat in these parks (desert) this time of year. Since I also skipped Arizona for the same reason, I plan to return to the Southwest in the fall when the weather will be a bit more enjoyable for this Northeastern girl.

#24: Orange County & LA

My time in Yorba Linda in Orange County was extended a bit longer than I had planned. No complaints here, though. That just meant more time with my friend Rich, his wife Jackie, and their twin daughter and son, Caitlin and Gavin. Amongst the COVID precautions, we were able to make a quick little afternoon getaway to Laguna Beach and get some local hikes in.

The rest of the time was spent simply hanging with them – swimming in the pool, helping home school the kiddos and enjoying family dinners. Rich is a friend from elementary school, so to be able to visit with him and his family and fold into their life for a short time was so special. Rich is in an EMBA program at USC, so I got to sit in on a few of his classes since he was taking them online. Oh! Also, it was in Yorba Linda when I also participated in my first-ever protest. What an experience.

While in SoCal, I spent a weekend with my dear friend from New York, Tahleen. She gave me a tour of her new neighborhood in LA (Redondo Beach area), we ordered takeout – it was like no time had passed since we last saw each other. She also took me to a stunning hidden gem of a neighborhood called Palos Verdes (or “PV” as the locals call it) – known as the Amalfi Coast of the area. It’s a beautiful residential town on a hill off of the ocean – like the Amalfi Coast.

A bit of “housekeeping” was done in SoCal as well. After leaving Texas, I had a few things that needed to be checked on my car. I made an appointment at a local VW dealer in the area as soon as I arrived in town. After the mechanics took a look, I was informed that it needed an entirely new fuel tank (long story). By the time the part came in, and they took the entire back end of the car apart to install the new tank, the car was in the shop for a whole week. My Certified Pre-owned Warranty covered all, so all I lost was some time. 

Then, one day I drove up the street to purchase a birthday card for my nephew. The store was only a mile away from Rich and Jackie’s house. All of a sudden, my gas pedal wouldn’t accelerate the car. I pulled over to the safest place I could and called for a tow - right back to the dealer from which it had just come. It was scary. Per Rich’s recommendation, I used my YETI cooler as a pseudo cone because my car was right around a corner where other vehicles were turning. I just sat and waited for the tow truck. Later I learned that something was loose from where they had taken the car apart to install the new fuel tank. 

Of course, my mind immediately went to, “Well, I guess I’m not leaving for San Diego on Thursday.” (The car thing happened on Tuesday). But I did not overreact. I remained calm. Hell, after sheltering in place for two months, my grand plan was already shot. Anything that happens after that is not part of the plan anyway! As luck would have it, I got the car back the next day and was able to leave for San Diego that Thursday, as planned.

#23: COVID-19: Setback or Setup?

It's no doubt that the last few months have been tumultuous (and remain to be). For everyone. Even though I'm not currently working full time, it's been difficult for me, so I can only imagine how it is for others.

Of course, the year I choose to embark on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure to explore our country is the year our nation falls victim to a worldwide pandemic. So frustrating. And sad. And stressful. And mentally, emotionally, and physically exhausting. WTF.

BUT. The minute I start feeling sorry for myself, I think about those whose problems and stresses go way beyond mine. The way I have been mastering this trying time is simply by putting things in perspective.

Although this is not an ideal situation for anyone right now, I keep reminding myself that I'm safe and healthy. There are people out there who are not. There are people out there living paycheck to paycheck and not able to work. They are stuck in an apartment with abusive loved ones. They are sharing 800 square feet of living space. They are confined with limited access outside. They are risking their lives, caring for those infected. They are serving us at grocery stores and other essential businesses. There are so many more people in different situations that I probably cannot even fathom. I think about them, and then I start to feel grateful. It's a mindset shift.

Does this suck? Absolutely. I can choose to get mad and sad and frustrated, or I can choose to accept it and find anything positive I can pull from it. Here are some ways I've been deviating from the negative:

• Focus on relationships: With friends, family, and even romantic partners. In strengthening these types of connections, I continue to learn more about myself and realize what I value in others, and how others value me. I've had some eye-opening moments that have enabled me to think differently about who I am and how I interact with others.

• Well-being: Since I’ve had access to regular running water (therefore frequent showers), I’ve been getting my running game back on. I’ve started meditating. And I’ve been doing daily strength exercises. Just having had a recent birthday and being one year older, I understand that one day I won’t be able to move around as easily. I need to take advantage of what my body can do NOW. Additionally, I am writing more than I had been. 

• Learning: I’ve been learning how to sew(!). I borrowed a sewing machine and taught myself how to use it. It’s become something that I enjoy and something that I want to continue on the road (sans sewing machine; I’ve found some techniques that are creative and useful and do not require a machine). I splurged on a membership to Skillshare, so I have access to videos covering an array of topics to broaden my marketing expertise. I also signed up for a digital marketing class.

• Networking: This is something I do all the time, but I've been doing a lot of research on companies and people with whom I'd like to connect. I've been thinking about what I can do now to position myself well for a job after my journey.

• Stopping: This may not be as straightforward, but I’ve been mindful of taking time to stop, enjoy, and just be. I know that one day I will have looked back at this time and realized the beauty of having it. It’s a gift. 

What are the positives of this time for you?

Now, I’m getting back to what I set out to do (safely, of course). I left West Texas for Southern California. I’m visiting some friends now and will continue my journey in whatever way is possible. If parks open up, great. If they don’t, that’s okay too. I’ll figure something else out and make my way just the way I’m destined to (apparently with ample face masks and hand sanitizer and dodging people when I’m running on the sidewalk!).

This is not a setback. It’s a timeframe that has set me up for what’s next. I’m a better person for having this time. We all are, and just need to keep reminding ourselves of that. 

A few photos from my current time in Southern California…